I have my doubts that using JB Weld would seal the leak and still allow the shaft to turn freely. You don't have anything to lose and its worth a try. Rebushing the valve shaft would fix the problem but could end up costing more that a replacement exhaust manifold.

I don't know how much used exhaust manifolds are going for in your area but they are still available new (or at least the part number is still listed) from Hermoff:
http://www.hermoff.com/store/catalog/de ... h=1_51_103&
Obviously, this would the maximum price for the repair.

Given the choice between having a leaking exhaust manifold and spending a pile of money on repairs. I would try DW's solution and wire the valve open and then I would spread some JB Weld to seal the leak. If the JB Weld doesn't stick to the valve shaft, you've solved your problem. However, if the JB Weld doesn't seal well, then I would try brazing the shaft to the manifold. Lots of people run their cars with no manifold heat so doing so yourself wouldn't be the end of the world.

Any technicians with a fix for this problem?

Frank

Sure, use a cutting tourch and remove the valve. Tap the holes and use bolts to seal it up. Reinstall the choke stove and reconnect the flex pipe to the air cleaner. Leaky manifold fixed, heat to carb to prevent icing and improved access to nuts that hold the manifolds to the head. You kill 3 birds with one stone...

well well well, the almighty and infallable exhaust flapper isnt working. you should probably sell your car (or truck) for scrap, your slant will never be the same. you could try a tribal dance to the gods of momentary enrichment everytime you have to start her up but eventually you will have to sacrifice a lamb. OR since i am guessing you don't want to do any major surgery cut it out tap the holes, use a high heat sealer on the threads though. If you are worried about the upcoming winter months, tape some refrigerator magnets to an old hard rock cafe t-shirt and slap it over the grill while you warm it up. this will raise the engine temp faster. If you want that baby so stock you even have a mopar ice scraper, remove the exhaust mani, grind the welds of the butterfly, slide out the shaft and either hammer and drill out the old bushings and replace them or cut the shaft off flush at the counter weight and drill an tap the end of a larger shaft and screw the wieght on to it and drill out the bushings for an exact fit to the new shaft and drill and tap screws to hang on to the butterfly. you can do this all with a dremal and a tap set. WARNING; i am not an engineer nor do i play one on t.v. and i have never and would never go to this extent to preserve such a POS squeeky little mouse trap of a part. since it is on the passanger side you could just barrow your mom's car for dates or nothing says cool like a gas mask and its "terror resistant"

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anything worth doing is worth re-doing, again and again and again...........

Neither am I, but I do play one at work

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

play

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

you could also make an exhaust wrap volley ball around the whole thing

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anything worth doing is worth re-doing, again and again and again...........

doh

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Thanks for the jokes and the real comment. The exhaust is on my big block 300 G Chrysler, so I want it to run well at cold temps, though we don't get Hard winters in Louisiana. I have already considered brassing the outside of the shaft, but this will keep the butterfly from closing. I was hoping someone had a REAL solution to this problem. The car is all stock, but sounds like it's sputtering due to the leak around the shaft. Anyone have a simple, cheap solution that will really work? No more jokes, please, unless they are a lot funnier than the ones already posted. Thanks Slantsixers. My 225 is in the speed shop waiting its turn for a major series of improvements, so there's not a lot I can do to my '62 Signet till the motor's done. I'll just have to settle on improving this puny 413 ram car in the meantime.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Do a search on e-bay. Heat riser repair kits show up from time to time. If some one has a parts book, and can get the part number, it might even be available from the dealer. There were only a few different repair kits, and they fit a large number of applications. However the manifolds must be removed to install the kit.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Those are probably the coolest cars ever made, in my humble opinion...

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I had a exhaust leak out of the heat riser like flynt,so I cut it out,and bolted it shut.I did this about 3 yrs ago and have never had a problem.While I was at it I also cut the tin strip on the exhaust gasket above the flapper.What we have now is perfect free flowing exhaust,cant argue with that.When I start the car I do let it warm up in the garage for a couple extra minutes,no biggie.

In closing,if you live in a cold area,and this car is your daily driver,and you are in a big hurry.Leave it in.

If you live in sunny so-cal or other warm climate states,and this is your little hot-rod.Rip that piece of junk HR out!!!! No need for it period........

.02
JZ