I have an early 60's slant exhaust manifold that I am going to be modifying into the rear half of a dual exhaust setup. The problem is that the heat riser valve thingy is rusted tight. I would liek to keep the valve since where I live it gets semi cold. Is there any way to fix this thing and if not, where should I position the valve to acheive the best compromise between exhaust restriction and heating the intake?

Thanks!

Reed, I'd just take the sucker out. It dosn't get cold enough around here to worry about. I know, mines looooong gone..... I plugged up the holes with some bolts (after tapping the holes first).

Hmmm. Okay. I guess I will be getting some pipe plugs then. Thanks Eric!

I would be carefull when doing that. The last few days have been rough on the old '65, 50* weather and rain means an iced up carb. Eric gets away with this by having the heated aircleaner. I don't have that luxury. Whatever you do, you will need some sort of heat source for the carb.

Thanks kesteb! I will be running a heated air intake setup. Did you know that if you have a stock one or two barrel carb you can just use the system from a later car and adapt it to your engine? Its true. The heated air intake system for slants is entirely separate from the carb and engine. It is all in the air cleaner and brackets.

Try Tapping with a hammer on the ends that stick out, you might put some
penetrating solution on the hole/shaft first. It will work if you put some effort into it (not beat the crap out of it) just be patient gently back and forth with the shaft they do move sideways a little.

That is correct, I should have mentioned that. I do run an open air cleaner in warmer months (like May through mid September). I've been thinking about fabing up a stock air cleaner with dual snorkles like the 383/400/440 hipo engines used so I can still have heated air and a little less restriction.

Thats an interesting idea. I would imagine that you could get two stock one barrel air cleaners and cut the snorkel off of one and pop rivet it to the other. Get some bondo and black paint and voila- dual snorkel one barrel air cleaner.

I would also cut off the part on the bottem of the snorkle that the tube from the heat stove attaches to, and keep the vacuum door in it so that only heated air gets in on the side with the heat stove. When the air gets warm enough, it will open like normal (using a T fitting in the vacuum line from the temperature sensor). All I have to do now is find a couple of old air cleaners....

Well, I could do that, but I like the looks of the '65 air cleaner. The things we do to be cool...

Fopar has the right approch with getting the heat riser valve unstuck, penetrating oil and patients!

On early manifolds woth the bolt-on counterweight, remove it to get more working room.
If you can find a small metal tube that will fit over the shaft and allows you to tap on the pressed-in shaft bushing, that really helps.
Support one end of the shaft on a solid surface and use the tube to strike the bushing, that tends to break things loose so the p. oil can get in there. Lot's of tapping and wiggling and more p. oil will get it working again.
DD

You guys are aweosme and this site is the best I spent about 5 minutes with a can of penetrating lubricant and a 5 lb sledge and it works freely now!

However, I have a concern that the flapper and counterweight have been rotated from their correct positions on the shaft. here are some pics:

position of counterweight when closed:


position of flapper valve when closed:


position of counterweight when open:


position of flapper valve when open:


Can someone tells me if this looks right?

Thanks!

The counter weight need to rotate clockwise about 30 degrees.
Loosen the bolt / nut and reset it so the flap directs the exhaust gas to the bottomside of the intake when the counter weight is up against the stop. (as in photo #1)
DD

Thanks!

For posterity, can you take couple of photos and put them up here with flapper & counter balance correctly set up in closed and open positions?

Cheers,

Wizard