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Sweet Emotion

Yes, Doctor Dodge wrote a very helpful article concerning this.
You'll find it in the messages section under main seal and oil pan sealing.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm[/url]

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70 Valiant Super Six

I didn't see this point addressed in the article; however, I use a skim of anaerobic (sp?) sealer on this joint.

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Thanks. Yea the pointer is the place I am concerned about. Without sealer that would be a metal to metal joint. So I take it you use the sealer around the bolt hole on the bare metal contact points between the "L" seal and half round main seal. Also I take it the two halfs of the main seal just butt together without sealer.

You know, this is a very complex arrangement! You have to use sealer and still oil the two halves of the main seal and get the "L" seal located properly. Could they have made it any more difficult? Seems like a prime area for leakage.

Thanks

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Sweet Emotion

One other point. The gasket set had instructions for this but they were poorly written. But one thing it did show was there are little plastic sleeves that fit into the bolt holes. You can almost make them out in my picture but it's dark and they are black in color. Anyways I assume they are there to help center the bolts and effectively guide the cap to a proper alignment. This could be critical to the alignment of the two halves of the main seal. I actually have two complete gasket sets. The Felpro came with them and the instructions and the other brand (which I can't remember the name of it) did not come with it. Now these sleeves look like they are made from PVC. I am surpised Doc didn't address this in the article. I think Doc might want to add the sleeve issue and the metal to metal sealer issue to the article for clarity. By the way the article is great otherwise. Great resource. Just trying to help. I hate leaky seals.

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Sweet Emotion

It makes you appreciate the new one-piece designs, doesn't it?
At least you're not still stuck with a rope!

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Good points on rear main seal installation.
One thing I do is to lightly file the main seal cap mounting surface flat, a small dab of sealer on that area is also good "insurance" that no oil will seep through.

I copied the attached photo and will add an up-date to the sealing article.
Thanks,
DD

OK, we did an up-date on that sealing article, here is the link:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm

I did a test fit with the rubber end gaskets on the oil pan today. One observation is the "L" seals seem to cause the rubber seal on the pan to squeeze out. I'm wondering if I should cut off the "L" seals to eliminate this interference. Any thoughts? I'm talking about the rubber seals that protrude beyond the rear main cap shown in Dougs pics in the article.

Thanks.

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Sweet Emotion

Glue everything down and crush those "L" tabs under the rear oil pan seal. This will ensure that oil will not seep-out of those corners.
DD

I just did the oil pan installation last week and used the article as a guide. It was a big help and now it is even more clear. One question though. The article did not mention putting any sealer on side of the cork gasket that touches the oil pan. Is this OK? I didn't use any either and I've been second guessing my work.



Joe

It shouldn't require sealer. Usually I use some goop to help keep it aligned during install, but otherwise cork seals fine either way in my experience.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

I use a small amount of sealer on the block side of the cork "side rail" gaskets just to hold them in place. I do not use sealer on the pan side, except at the very ends where they meet the rubber.
My reasoning, if I have to remove the pan later, the gaskets stay stuck to the block and the oil pan comes away cleanly, to the point where you can re-use the gasket.
DD

What is the torge supposed to be for the oil pan bolts? My book says 25 ft/lbs. Seems like too much. The cork gasket completely squishes out at 25.

Thanks

My info says that the oil pan bolts tighten to 200 inch pounds.
http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpage ... -chart.htm
I never use a torque wrench on oil pan bolts, valve covers etc., just tighten them "snug", until the cork / rubber starts to compress.
25 ft lbs is way to much, what "book" do you have?
DD