i'm having troubles keeping my slant running when it gets warmed up my choke not opening

i noticed the alternator on the plus side. i got under the hood and seen that a wire was missing. from what i believe it's the on from the choke heater to the choke thermostat. i hooked up a temp think this would.


But nothing i need help how i can i tell if these parts are bad or could it be some thing else?

can i take the choke off?

You can take the choke off and replace it with a manual choke. It's not the best solution, but it might be the cheapest.

The electric choke should still eventually open as the exhaust manifold heats up. If it never opens, then the choke plate is sticking badly or the choke themostat coil is broken. Clean or replace those parts if needed.

Remember that you must press the gas pedal to release the high idle cam and allow the choke to open. This looked like a problem when I first bought my truck, but it is the intended operation of the choke design.

If the choke is not broken or sticking, but simply slow to open, then it is likely due to the wiring that you have mentioned. Not knowing the year or model, I suggest you find a wiring diagram and get things reconnected properly.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

i have had some gremlins in my choke too, clean your grounds, ground straps, negitive battery cable. this might help. also your cooling system thermostat could be stuck ( around here people blindly remove them). if you do go manual the choke off an early eighties honda is much better than those "help" kits but are much shorter.

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anything worth doing is worth re-doing, again and again and again...........

i've checked out the choke and it seems to be ok. i moved the pump rod to the last hole and it seems to work a little better

now i got a problem when it motor gets warm things start acting funny
the ammeter sits ont the plus side close to +40 if i hit the gas it miss fire and some times dies and is really hard to get started again have to hold my foot on the gas

Sounds like your alternator is going full blast

You better get that worked out before you burn up the wiring harness.

First, check that the field wires connecting to the alternator are clean and attached firmly. Field wires are the 2 wires other than the main wire to the alternator. They control the alt's output and lead back to the voltage regulator.

Next, make sure those wires arn't broken or fried. Next, make sure your voltage regulator is mounted to clean metal, so it can ground through it's mounting hardware. If the high charging situation persists, I expect that you need a voltage regulator, or possibly an alternator and voltage regulator.

I'm not an electrical guru, so you might want to search through old alternator problem posts and see if I missed any of the common failure points.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

How's your voltage regulator?

well today i was able to start it and get to the parts store. i had them check the voltage regulator and well he said the volts were climbing slow so it was my voltage regulator.

found this out after i bought an alternator and voltage regulator. so i know i have to change the voltage regulator but should i take back the new alternator or but it on?

I also think the alternator has more amps. would this hurt?

do you have points, i would check them and test the coil and wires, check the plugs for fouling. sometimes crapped out plug wires can jack up some things.

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anything worth doing is worth re-doing, again and again and again...........