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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 4:51 pm
Posts: 463
Car Model:
I've been studying older post about head milling and boosting compression, and I still can't find a honest answer, as well as all the answers are different for the same question. I know I need to know how far down in the hole I am [I don't]. As far as I know, Im still running a stock motor and Im porting a head for better flow, and want to boost compression as well. I know stock cc #s are about 54 cc's and/or higher.
To make myself safe for when rebuild day comes, Im thinking on keeping the mill conservative in case the pistons push up higher than stock, [which I will doubt!].
My questions are these----
1. Would a .50 mill be a good conservative mill to help boost compression some? Looking for a close to 9.0-1!
2. Looking a keeping a composite head gasket for sealing reasons, who makes the thinest one to help boost/keep the compression up without spending a arm and leg?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 8:21 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 10:02 am
Posts: 1817
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
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I think you mean 0.050". I took 0.100" off or mine and the cylinder pressures range from 155-165 psi. I have to run 92-93octane to keep from pinging.
If you use a composite head gasket you reduce the ammount you have milled because the gasket is thicker than stock.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
.050 to .075 is a good place to start.

We are basically just taking a "wild guess" because stock Slants are all over the map as far as deck height and head chamber cc's go. You just have to get in there and measure, then "do the math".

As for head gaskets, all of the composit ones are around .045 compressed. The factory steel shim gasket is .020 so .025 of head milling is used making-up that difference.
DD


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2003 7:29 pm
Posts: 36
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how far can you mill and keep stock pushrods on a hydraulic liftered late model?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 5:27 pm 
Are there any suggestions or sites or manuals that might explain porting and or valve angle/preps issues? To relate to machine shops?
Am looking for maximum air flow here, not just for racing, but for the sake of maximum efficiency, with a moderate lift and duration cam.
I'm new to these engines, ( and to the blood and beef that went into their design), as a staunch Ford man, I must say. (after a thrown rod postmortum), that I'm most impressed by the size of the crankshaft counter weights, and the length of the connectinh rods.
Any and all help in planning and configuring is appreciated.
Al
in Ct.


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