I'm trying to get the dome light working in my car. The bulb has been replaced. The switch on the front passenger door needs to be replaced - so it's out of the car right now. The drivers door switch is working, the metal has been polished and it's making good contact. Alas, no light. What's the problem? Any ideas? Is there a fuse to check?

Also - does anyone know where to get that rubber bushing that pushes onto the end of the accelerator linkage? It sits in the cage which turns the end of the carburetor shaft. Laysons doesn't have them...

If the brake lites work properly the power circuit for the dome lite is OK. Look for a broken connection on the pink or yellow wires for the dome lite. The pink wire should be hot, and the yellow wire is for the ground circuit. The lite is switched on and off with the ground.
The throttle bushing is usually available on e-bay, from Frank Mitchel. I just looked and it is not listed right now.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks, I see the yellow wires leading to the switches; is there a common spot to look for a break in the wire? a spot that normally breaks? Tracing the wires has lead to a tangle of wires behind the dash that's pretty hard to see...

I am not that familiar with the 60-62 mopars, that I can give you specific trouble spots. I got the info I gave you from a electrical wiring diagram book I have had for years. It is about 3 inches thick, and is just wiring diagrams for 60-69 domestic cars, light trucks, and vans.
See if you have battery voltage at the light. If no, trace the pink wire back to the ign switch. If yes, then trace the yellow ground wire back from the light.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

After an experience I subsequently learned was very typical, I have made it a policy for over 15 years not to give more money to Frank Mitchell's travelling scam-artist show.

The accelerator bushing you're after, and lots of other parts for your '60, are readily available from Gary Goers—with much better service and flawless honesty and at much more reasonable prices. www.garygoers.com ; you ought to have his catalogue.

It would not surprise me to learn that Mitchell were simply reselling marked-up Goers bushings.

Thanks for that info, Dan. I have bought items from Frank, without a problem, but have read of others haveing problems. It is nice to have another source. I just knew Frank had them available. He is higher then others, on pricing, and his customer service does leave something to be desired.

BTW, have you seen this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=10076

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

If this is the same Frank Mitchel from Mitchel's nos motor parts, I'd avoid like the plague. Dealt with him once years ago and never again.

Wasn't he the one that didn't have a catalogue, but sent you a huge text list of parts he had?

So the ol' stickittoya's trying to sell his business again, eh?

Anyone else remember when Frankie boy got in a tight spot with the IRS? It was right before that "mysterious" fire that burned down an enormous warehouse he had full of insured but un-inventoried NOS Mopar parts.

behind the drivers side kick panel. That is where mucho water from the
windshield leaks puddle up on the wiring (also a place the mice like to
chew up the wiring to make nests). The pink and yellow wire go
into a connector that is usually corroded to the point of no contact.
Use an ohm meter to check continuity across (through) the connector.
If that checks out, check from the connector up to the lamp contacts in the dome light.

Try Gary Goers for the door switch, the carb rod bushing, and maybe
even the windshield clips! He has great repro parts. Some times takes
him a while to make them up for you - but it has always been worth the
wait for me.

Thanks Relic-Lover. Is that connector you're talking about a black plastic connector right there at the bottom when you take the kick panel off? Or is there another connector where the wires go up behind the kick panel, behind the dashboard? I see the black plastic one at the bottom with both pink and yellow wires connected to it.

One of you mentioned that if the brake light circuit works, that the dome light circuit should be fine. My brake lights are working, but the dome light still isn't going on. I've tried turning on the dome light by the headlight switch - also with no result. Obviously there's a wiring problem.

Someone suggested there could be a break in the wires someplace - i'm looking into that possibility. Any other words of wisdom on this subject that I should know before tearing things apart to find the problem?

A combination of door switch corrosion, timing, and switching out light bulbs has finally made it work. Thanks to all for their help!