I'm about ready to install the new oil pump. Here are my thoughts on the installation:

1. A little oil on the drive shaft to help it slip through the block;

2. Maybe a little grease on the drive shaft gear?;

3. I'm thinking no sealant on the gasket, but maybe I'm wrong there. Seems like that would make removing the oil pump at a later date (hopefully not by me) very difficult.

When I put the oil pan back on, I'm planning on "gluing" the gasket in place on the block, and more sealant on the pan before putting it in place. Am I thinking right on this.

Also, should I use lok tite on the pick up tube when I put it back in?

Thoughts? Hints? Suggestions?

Thanks, guys. Almost there.

dave

I think you would do fine.
I would use loctite, just to be sure the threads are leak-proof, and don´t suck air...

If this is an "in car" oil pump swap, the key will be getting the engine jacked-up and rocked over to the drivers side to give you more room to work. On the 60-66 "narrow" chassis, I disconnect the rear trans mount as well and that allow you to really shift things around to make room. Some wood blocks are also helpful to keep the tilted engine supported.
DD

I would use Locktite "thread sealant" not the red or blue "lockwasher/nut", or teflon paste, not tape, on the pickup. Make sure the pickup is installed at the correct angle. Put some vasoline in the oil pump, to prime it, don't need to pack it full.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I was wondering about that. I read a partial post before about putting vasaline in the pump, but wasn't sure what it was for. As it turns out, the screen was almost completely plugged up, so that was probably the problem. But, since I've gotten the old pump off, I'm going to go a head and replace it. Where exactly do I put the vasaline? Do I take the cover off of the pump to reveal the impeller (I think that's what its called) and pack it in around the impeller? I carefully measured before I took the tube out so I know my depth, etc. for it.

dave

That silly vasoline/grease notion has been floating around here for quite some time. Time to put it to rest.

Just pour some oil in the pump and turn the gear to work the oil in to and through the pump, then let the excess drain out so you don't have a big mess when installing the pump. This will get the pump pre-lubed and also the oil fills in the spaces that provide the running clearance of the pump parts. Filling those spaces with a film of oil helps to seal them so they don't leak air and make the pump not pump up oil. Oil pump priming should not be a problem if you do this on a new pump. I would also put a little grease on the gear teeth to provide initial lubrication when the engine is first started.

There could be a priming problem on a old very worn out pump but if it is already that worn out, it may not be good to keep running it anyway.

Craig, thanks for the info and suggestions. I just got back and picked up a new pump. It is a 5 bolt pump. Mine was a 6 bolt, but the new pump says I can use it with the 6 bolt gasket, which came with it. Will this really work, or do I need to take it back and go to a different store for a 6 bolt pump? If I really can use the 5 bolt pump, NOW do I need to put some sealer on the gasket surfaces?

dave

Be sure to double check the pick-up tube for cracks right below the threads. We just pulled the motor out of my sons Dart due to a low oil pressure problem and I found the tube on his car was cracked. I bumped it when I removed the pan and I saw it move. I grabbed it and wiggled it a little and it was obviously cracked nearly in half. I suspect at low RPM it was sucking enough air for the oil pressure to drop very low, but when you increase RPM it would go up to 30-40 pound.

Has anyone ever built a brace for on the pick-up to give it a little more stability??


Thanks,

Rick

I don't know where you'd fit a brace in there.

The service manual states the pickup should touch the bottom of the oil pan with 1/8" interference or something like that. Part of that reason may be so the pickup and tube is not just hanging in the open where it can vibrate and work harden and crack with engine vibrations. Where as if the oil pan has some interference with the pickup when you put the pan on then it will not be free to vibrate.

Just my theory. Anyone got another idea?

Oil will work for priming the oil pump. I use Vasoline, because sometimes I will have the engine on the stand, for months before installing it. This insures me the "prime medium" does not run out while sitting. The vasoline will totally desolve in oil. It just requires a small amount, to insure the pump will suck oil, and not air. Just put a little of whatever you use in the cavity where you can see the rotors.

The 5 bolt pump and gasket will interchange with the 6 bolt, with no problems.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks, guys. Weather permitting (not too cold), I'll get the block surface cleaned up and the new pump on today. Thanks, very much.

dave

I like to use Permatex 2B on 80% of gaskets. It is non-hardening and makes disassembly a breeze, easy cleanup and great sealing. Avoid blue "redneck" RTV like the plague

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Thanks Dennis. Appreciate the info on the Permatex. I'm thinking that I could go a head and pour oil in the pump and turn the gear as was suggested earlier, and go a head and mount the pump. If I have to wait a week or so to finish the job, I figure I could just pour some more oil in where the filter would go and it should be good to go.

dave

That's fine, just so it's wet. You're going to have a lot of air to pump out of that damnable upsidedown filter, make sure you ground the coil wire and crank until it puts the light out befor you start the motor. By the way, did you consider inspecting your bearings while it's all apart? The rods would be an easy replace at this point, and the mains are not all that hard to do with the crank in place. Even if you just replaced the rod bearings (if they show some distress), you'd be helping yourself out.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Dennis,

I thought about checking out the bearings, but I don't want to put that much into this engine. It is going to come out - I have a mild 360 that I'm going to put into this car.

Now, probably a stupid question, but what's the best way to ground the coil wire? Pull it from the distributor and wedge it somewhere on the block? I have a remote starter that I could use - it will turn the engine over, but won't start unless the key ignition is turned on. Of course, then I can't tell when the light goes out either. So grounding the coil wire is probably the better solution.

dave