Ozzy Gear Drives, someone needs to send Lou M. (Dart270) a message to see if he can get his hand on the GD set for a SL6 (The one shown here is for the Hemi Six 265)
DD

Unfortunately a search for "Diecrest Engineering" on our telephone directories comes up blank. We do have JP Engineering though, who I understand supply Cox brothers with their multi-keyway roller timing chain sets. They sell for about US$80 here.

http://www.jp.com.au/TimingChainSets.html

Ray from PentaStar Parts and Restorations was talking about producing a run of gear drive sets. Drop him a line via his website:

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/

Ok i just posted JP to see what one of those babeys are going to run shipped to the states!
And if your all wondering Jegs is backordered on thick intake/exhause gaskets from Mr G for the slants

Ok i emailed JP they gave me a # in Cally to call, So i call the # in CA and find it is a warehouse and don't deal with the public but they did give me a few #'s to try,
Hardcore Racing NY
631-737-0372
Liberty engine Parts PA
516-378-6100

He said these MIGHT carry the parts or be able to order them but they are just local type speed shops.

I really wanted one of those nice JP sets i just don't care for hughes. (just a personal opinion )

I ordered my JP set from Cox Bros. Nice to do business with. I believe the cost with shipping came out to just over $100. Very nice set. A little pricey, but top of the line.

Mitch

Jeg's sells a gear drive for big block mopars for $219. Could it be adapted?

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Franklin
'61 Valiant

The problem with the big block one that you see is that it is the three holes cam....If I could find one that is for the one hole cam...I'd be set. A friend of mine and myself made an adapter to make any big block roller set fit the slant so long as it's the one hole...I sure wonder what a lunpy cam in a slant would sound like with that gear drive whining away...

Wait so a Big block timing set will fit a slant?

Almost. The crank gear and chain are the same, but the cam gear requires and adapter.

BB Chevy crank and chain are the same too IIRC.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I get a dual idler gear drive in a 1200HP BBC or Wedge but on our little motors the HP loss on a gear drive could never be made up by any advantage it might have. The money might be better spent on roller cam followers or rockers. Hard to beat a good quality, light weight chain drive.
On our mudbogger we went to a home made chain drive and lost 150lbs weight and a ton of reciprocating mass and gear drive loss compared to our gear drive NP205 transfer case.
If a gear drive was deemed necessary an adapted one from another 6 like 250 Chev or 300 ford might make sense but then you need a backwards cam....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Point well taken Sandy...I didn't even think about the rotating weight involved....OK ..I'll just have to be happy with my true roller...

I wish someone would tell me, what is the big deal about these exotic cam drives. Double roller, tru roller, gear drive, belt drive, etc. I don't feel they are required, or even wanted, unless you are running very high valve spring pressures, and turning the motor over 6,000 rpm on a regular basis. I have raced Mopars, Fords, and Chevys, for over forty years, and have used a roller chain, only on two motors. A 440 mopar with a three bolt cam (only chain available), and a JP timing set from Cox Bros. on one of my slants. A real nice piece, but not neccessary on my motors. I use a stock replacement timing set, with a steel cam gear, and drill the dowel pin hole to use big block Mopar, or Chevy offset bushing to degree the cam. Stock gear set is about $20.00

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Because they are cool Charlie. Don't you know nuthin'?

I had a '57 Chevy pickup a few years back that had a 350 in it with a B&M gear drive and Flowmasters. Between the 2 it was painful to drive down the highway. Gear drives suck.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Tell me more about this adaptor. Big block chain sets are more readily available and much less expensive than one labeled "slant 6". I certainly don't understand why a slant 6 cam sprocket has to be so much more expensive than than the BB one if just the hub mount is machined slightly differerent. After all...... the raw gear has to be machined to some shape and dimension no matter what it is to fit.

Charlie, for me there is the durability issue, for starters. I've never pulled a high mile roller chain off a motor (like a cop 360) that had two inches of slop in it like a standard chain and steel gear (forget about the nylon/aluminum crap). I would think there is a smidge less friction with a roller chain (although I know the difference would be almost undetectable in the engine's output). But in my case with the /6 in my Duster, the standard parts store replacement chain makes some wierd-ass racket, and it is getting worse. That is, it seems to be coming from the front cover area at certain RPMs, and the stethescope backs this up. Really hard to describe the sound, not a tapping or rhythmic sound, it sounds, well kinda like dragging a chain over a can. I don't know if the chain is rubbing the cover, or if it just has some strange harmonics at certain RPM's. Sometimes the sound just vanishes abruptly, too. .....I wonder if my cam could be walking and rubbing the front cover.... Anyway, like I said, I plan to go to the roller chain and modify the galley plug to get a little more oil there as well (and inspect to see just exactly what the hell is the matter! )

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!