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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 11:26 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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How does one go about taking out the stand pipe? Sometimes the rods rattle during start up on the first start, sometimes they don't. Pressure goes up to 50psi cold, high idle when started, 25psi when warm. Every other time I start the car the pressure goes right up, no rattle. Isn't there a check valve in the pipe? I tried to remove the one on a spare pump I have with a 1" (I think) box wrench, and the sucker wouldn't budge. Any tips? I use Napa Gold filters FWIW.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 1:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: CA
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Its been a while so I don't remember all the details, but I used a socket on mine, but not exactly a conventional method.... the drive was big enough (1/2, maybe 3/4" ?) that the pipe went through the socket top. Then I grabed the socket with a plier.

If you don't have such a socket... not sure how tall the threads are on the pipe for the oil filter, but you can try tightening two thin nuts onto it, then loosening the bottom nut and that should get the pipe free

There is a check valve in the pipe, it consists of a small plate with notches in the side, and a spring. They are situated so that the spring is underneath the plate, so when oil flows through the filter and out the center, the plate gets pushed down towards the ground in its open state. Oil then flows through the notches into the engine. When in its closed state, the spring pushes the plate up, and the notches are blocked off by a lip in the pipe, causing oil flow to stop and not drain into the engine.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 7:36 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2004 4:12 am
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I just removed one last week from a spare engine and it was TIGHT!! If you dont have a socket to fit you can use a pipe wrench. You will have to de booger it once you freed it. They do still carry them at the dodge dealer part #3577-848.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 1:09 pm 
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Location: CA
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Be careful about dealer parts, the one I bought as misassembled, the spring and plate were reversed, so just make sure that the plate is above the spring (in the normal or closed position, the plate is towards the top of the pipe)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 9:03 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:02 pm
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Location: Port Townsend, WA, USA
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What is the advantage of removong the stand pipe?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 11:05 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
The stand pipe threads in but it is cinched down TIGHT! I use a big crescent wrench while the pump is still bolted to the block. There is supposed to be a check valve as well.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 11:08 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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What is the advantage of removong the stand pipe?
I just want to make sure the check valve is not staying open, allowing oil to drain back into the pan.

Thanks for the replies.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 11:16 pm 
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Location: CA
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Quote:
I just want to make sure the check valve is not staying open, allowing oil to drain back into the pan.
You don't have to take it off the car to do that. Remove the oil filter, and look down the tube with a flashlight. You can pour some oil down the tube and if the oil drains out then you know the valve is staying open, most likely due to a fatigued or gummed up spring.


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