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 Post subject: hei ignition problem
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 8:40 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 9:02 pm
Posts: 25
Car Model:
allright i hooked up the hei module, run wire from blue wire on the voltage regulator. start wire bal terminal on the starter relay. both of these wires together to the positive side of the coil, wire from there to b terminal on the hei. c on the hei is hooked to the negative side of coil.

this is on an 87 d100 truck. the problem is, it will not start. the w and g terminals are running to a 78 dodge d100 distributer, single pickup vacuum advance. there is 12 volts at terminal b and c, but the other side of hei module only has 1.3 volts at w and g terminal.

please help i am confused, i heard this would work but i am still not driving my truck again yet. :(


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 Post subject: Re: hei ignition problem
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24799
Location: North America
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Quote:
allright i hooked up the hei module, run wire from blue wire on the voltage regulator. start wire bal terminal on the starter relay. both of these wires together to the positive side of the coil, wire from there to b terminal on the hei. c on the hei is hooked to the negative side of coil.
For future reference: The above is scarcely readable at all. "start wire bal terminal on the starter relay." doesn't mean anything and isn't a sentence. Please, there's no reason for you to abbreviate words on the board -- you're not charged by the character, so go ahead and spell it all out in complete sentences.

The wiring instructions for HEI are here. Follow them exactly. Make sure your HEI module has a good ground via the bottom of the module itself through your aluminum mounting plate -- run a ground wire to one of the mounting screws if necessary. If you're wired in accordance with the instructions at the above site and your module is well grounded, try swapping the positions of the two wires coming off the distributor where they connect to the module. If still no go, start suspecting parts.


Last edited by SlantSixDan on Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: hei
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 4:42 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 9:02 pm
Posts: 25
Car Model:
ok, what voltage should i see at terminals g and w on the hei module. on my module there is 1.30 volts, is this right? if this should be 12 volts here when ever power is hooked up, then i need to know where i am losing power at.

also my truck is an 87 has anyone tried the hei setup on an 87 model? i am interested in knowing any other problems i may run into. i need this truck running in a couple of weeks, and i am way over budget trying to do this. all my parts are new. this truck will roll over and not even attempt to start. i do know that it appears to have compression and be in time, it also is getting gas.


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 Post subject: hei
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 4:48 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 9:02 pm
Posts: 25
Car Model:
ok, what voltage should i see at terminals g and w on the hei module. on my module there is 1.30 volts, is this right? if this should be 12 volts here when ever power is hooked up, then i need to know where i am losing power at.

also my truck is an 87 has anyone tried the hei setup on an 87 model? i am interested in knowing any other problems i may run into. i need this truck running in a couple of weeks, and i am way over budget trying to do this. all my parts are new. this truck will roll over and not even attempt to start. i do know that it appears to have compression and be in time, it also is getting gas.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 6:58 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 10:02 am
Posts: 1817
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Car Model:
The truck will not run if the HEI module has no ground. you have to make sure the bolts running through the module hit steel. I'm not sure why people are telling you to use an aluminum plate but it will not ground properly through one. I have mine bolted directly to the top of my inner fender. There really are only a couple of ways to wire this thing incorrectly. the only wire you need going to the coil is the blue one from the BR(the extra one on my coil is for my tach). B connects to the positive side of the coil and C connects to the negative side.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24799
Location: North America
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Quote:
The truck will not run if the HEI module has no ground.
True.
Quote:
not sure why people are telling you to use an aluminum plate but it will not ground properly through one.
Horsepuckey. They ground just fine through an aluminum plate. Aluminum conducts electricity, remember? Every HEI conversion I've ever done has had an aluminum plate for heat sink, cold-shock protection and mounting stability, and every one has worked great. The module mounting screws go through the module, through the plate, through the inner fender and into the nuts on the underside of the inner fender.


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 Post subject: Re: hei
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24799
Location: North America
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Quote:
has anyone tried the hei setup on an 87 model?
The module doesn't know or care what year, make or model of vehicle it's bolted into.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 6:28 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 10:02 am
Posts: 1817
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
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could you post a pic of one of yours Dan? I'd like to see what you do for yours. I don't under stand any of your reasons for using an aluminum plate. the thing is made to be run inside the distributer so mounting it anywhere it is exposed to cool air will allow for good heat sink. cold protection? whenever a car sits outside in the cold the module will become the the same temp as ambient. I would think the more things the bolts have to go through the less stable it would become. It just sounds like unnecessary time and expence to me. The way you see mine in the pic has run great for over 2 years now.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:09 pm 
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Posts: 24799
Location: North America
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Quote:
could you post a pic of one of yours Dan?
Looks just like yours, 'cept there's a 1/4" thick by about 2" by about 3" aluminum plate sandwiched between the module and the inner fender.
Quote:
I don't under stand any of your reasons for using an aluminum plate. the thing is made to be run inside the distributer so mounting it anywhere it is exposed to cool air will allow for good heat sink. cold protection?
Yep, cold protection. On the other side of the inner fender is...the tire, and below that's the road. Let the module get nice and toasty-warm, then drive through a puddle and have it splash the underside of the inner fender. Quick temperature change! Maybe I'm a little paranoid, or maybe it's that I've lived for most of the last decade in areas with large temperature extremes. If I lived in CA or GA or VA or PA or WA, I'd probably feel comfortable leaving off the plate. :-)
Quote:
I would think the more things the bolts have to go through the less stable it would become.
Huh?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 4:19 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
another thing you might want to do is use thermal heatsink compound (or silicone dielectric alternately) between the module and the plate, to allow more complete heat transfer. It will allow full surface contact and prevent local hotspots. Its recommended in the GM service manuals. I do the same thing with SITs and transistors on forklift electrical panels.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 7:46 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
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Ben: Dont be fooled into thinking you need the aluminum plate to make this work. It will work fine just the way 70 Valiant shows in his picture.
Cold protection?....what a crock! If anything a small piece of aluminum will transfer heat faster than an entire inner fender panel. One might also consider corrosion issues.
If one was really worried about "cold protection" they could mount it on the engine ala GM ESC modules.

When did we start marking questions based on punctuation and grammer? I thought this was about slants for everyone......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:29 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24799
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
Ben: Dont be fooled into thinking you need the aluminum plate to make this work.
That's true. The aluminum plate is a "belt and suspenders" precaution.
Quote:
Cold protection?
Cold protection.
Quote:
If one was really worried about "cold protection" they could mount it on the engine ala GM ESC modules.
There's also a bracket from Australia that mounts the HEI module right on the ignition coil.
Quote:
When did we start marking questions based on punctuation and grammer?
Quite awhile ago.
Quote:
I thought this was about slants for everyone.
It surely is! :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
Mmmhhh.... :?

I see our famous "PISSING CONTEST" coming on its way. :evil:

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 12:46 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Here's a pic of mine mounted, with an Al plate:

Image

Just for comparison


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