I read in my book that this adjustment is supposed to be done to 41 inch pounds of torque, then backed off 2 turns. Then I read in the forum that it's adjusted to finger tight then backed out 1 1/2 turns. We tried the former and there was no place within it's range of screwing in where it got that much torque. It was slipping just a little before we tried adjusting it and now it's slipping a LOT. We tried to get it back where it was before because it was real driveable then but it's almost impossible to find that spot. Now it's only slipping on hills and mostly during acceleration (steep hills). Is there any way to adjust this so I can get a few more months out of this tranny or do I need a new one?

In what range does it slip? It's probably not the kickdown band that is causing you problems, and yes, it is called a kickdown band. Even factory service literature refers to it as such. The front or kickdown band is applied in second only.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

It slips between first and second going uphill mostly. I KNOW it's the kickdown band because our adjustment made things worse not better. It's possible that the tranny is so worn that it would slip no matter the adjustment, but I just wish it was back like it was (barely and rarely slipping) at this point.

...try increasing the throttle pressure (kickdown rod length), then crank up the line pressure if that doesn't help. As long as your KD band adjustment is in the right ballpark, it should not be that picky - the problem lies elsewhere, in my opinion.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

How do I "crank up the line pressure"? What is the line pressure?

Sorry I know little of transmissions.

You mentioned a book... what sort of book are you using? First, do the throttle pressure rod, that's simple and easy. Lengthening the rod (using whatever adjustment setup your particular vehicle employs) should make the trans shift later (higher RPM) and firmer. Shortening it would make it shift sooner (lower RPM) and softer.

On to line pressure..... The line pressure adjusting screw can be accessed by dropping the pan. It is an Allen head screw that faces the drivers side on the forward part of the valve body. You really need a service (or other) manual to point it out. the screw goes thru a threaded plate with a spring underneath. You would want to compress the spring from where it is now. If yours is "runaway" between gears as you say, it may not help at all, but just to see, I'd give it the max adjustment which is only one or two threads of the screw still in the plate (max spring compression). If you back out the screw all the way, the plate will cock and can cause the pressure valve to stick in its bore, and you don't want that.

Many here will say that you must remove the valve body to properly access this adjusting screw. It can be easily adjusted with an "L" style Allen wrench of the proper size (3/16"?) with the short side cut down to clear the pan rail. A small needle-nose type vise-grip on the outside of the screw will also work, but that's pretty sleazy...

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!