Hi guys,

Need some help. Found a possible parts car (yes I realize this means I will be crucified by my better half, but play along with my fantasy for a moment) and wanted to know a few things about it.

First off, its a 67 Valiant, with a non-running 273. It has a suregrip rear (I believe 8.75, but haven't seen it yet to be sure) with an unknown ratio. Here's my undereducated train of thought that needs some help:

• 1) Is this a BBP rear end on a 67 v8?
  2) 904 trans? (how would i know the diff between a 904 and 727?
  3) (the kicker) If this is a 904, could I take the tailshaft and driveshaft and replace mine with this one, therefore avoiding driveshaft shortening and eliminating the ball and trunion? Here I'm totally in the dark and need some light

Just pondering...is this a possible/desirable thing?

Thanks!

MJ

"Hi, honey, I'm home. Oh, by the way, I know we're moving clear across the country in a month and the house must at every moment be so pristine and tidy that it looks as though nobody lives here except the housekeeper who comes once a week to clean and tidy even though nobody lives here, all despite our having a small and energetic kid, but I bought a parts car. Hope you don't mind. What's fer dinner?"

Yeah, I'd say you need some help. This reminds me of that old oil filter commercial: Pay a little now or a lot later. D'you want a little help now, or are you intent on going for a lot of help later?

(You'll have to excuse me. I've just read "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas".)
Could easily be an 8-3/4, but could also be a 9-bolt (7-1/4). Any idea what brakes it has, and whether it's a 2bbl or a 4bbl?
No, it's SPB. No BBP on A-bodies til '73.
That won't fit your \6, yes, almost certainly.

904 has a square pan with one corner cut off. 727 has a bulged-out left front corner of the pan rail.

No, 'cause the '67 tailshaft won't fit your '62 trans (no provisions to drive the rear pump).
Nuh-uh. If you install an 8-3/4" or 10-bolt (8-1/4") in your '62, you'll have to shorten the driveshaft regardless. The difference in driveshaft length isn't due to the trans tailshaft, it's due to the wheelbase of the car and the forward projection of the rear axle.
No reason to eliminate the B/T unless it's in need of rebuilding and/or the driveshaft has to be shortened. B/T front U-joints work great.
Awshoot, I shouldn't have responded. I don't know a damn thing about light.

Sounds to me, seriously, as if everybody involved would be a lot happier if you left this parts car for somebody with a closer recipient-car match...

i agree! The only good part was its on the west coast so I wouldnt' have to move it

Thanks Dan, i can stay married! I just thought it was worth investigating.


Let there be LIGHT!

Who ordered this oncoming train !

I did!

Ok next question: what modifications of my drivetrain would be required to put this rear end in? Assuming my ball and trunion is ok (which I think it is) would the end of my driveshaft mate up with the 8.75? If not what's involved?

thanks!

MJ

If the repalcement rear end is an 8 3/4 you will need to shorten the drive shaft about 2 inches and if the yoke ("knuckle") is the larger type, you will need a special U-joint to adapt. (it could be the same size, there is a "large and small" yoke size offered for the 8 3/4 rears)
DD

Ok i'll measure mine, and then measure the 8 3/4 and see what I come up with.

thanks!

MJ