torque converter.

Had a new/rebuilt torque converter put on when I did the engine. Tranny was rebuilt too zero miles on them. I had a mechanic listen to it today and he said its not the engine more than likely. We took off the oil filter and ripped it apart and there was no bearing crap in it so I think the noise is just being transfered through the engine from the tranny area. Now to figure out what is making the clunking noise.

Lancergt did you find out what was clunking yet ??

Tried to drive my car today. Wow what a nightmare! Idles like crap in drive. Knocking like a diesel with a bent rod over 25 mph. Also knocks in Park when reved up. Vibrations from everyplace due to motor mount. I think I can fix the motor mount. Last week I removed and destroyed the oil filter to see if I could locate some filings in there but it looked really good. Was expecting maybe a bearing took a crap or some sort of clue. I`m just about at my wits end here. Might swap back to the cast block and machine it out to accept my new aluminum block parts. Just a thought at this point

Did you check the flywheel and
flex plate bolts . Also check for
cracked flex plate around the bolts
holes by the crank.

Yes I rechecked the bolts in my flex plate. Torque converter is on correct and tight. I would have seen a cracked flex plate when I assembled it if that was the problem.

Do you have the correct crank pilot hole and torque converter hub size?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Charrlie, those are terrific questions. Lancergt, what year crank and what year torque converter did you use?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The crank is a 1962 original. The torque converter is new/rebuilt one that I thought matched the original one. I had them side by side and they looked identical so I figured everything was ok. Good idea but I`m afraid it is not the problem.

The difference in torque converter nose diameter is only 1/4", but it's enough to make problems if a large-nose converter is placed behind a small-bore crank.

Why don't we back up a few steps? What modifications and parts were used in the buildup?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Parts used.
1962 aluminum block. "special head" for aluminum block
New pistons. Refurbished and checked connecting rods
Crank from 1962 aluminum block polished only not reground
new comp cam. All new bearings of course.
Was going to use the old torque converter but for $75.00 I got a refurbished one for the year 1962. I looked it over to see the diameters were the same on the converter and I thought it looked good. Had the tranny rebuilt also. I dont know what else to say.
I basically built this 1962 aluminum engine to replace the working 1964 cast engine that was in the car. While I was rebuilding I had the tranny and tourque converter done also. If you need more details please ask them and I will try to answer you

OK, so this isn't a mix 'n' match deal, it sounds like mostly reconditioned original/correct parts. That's a good start.

You say you've got 35psi oil pressure. OK, that's acceptable, but I'm curious about something: Does the knock get quieter (or go away) if you put in heavier oil, such as straight SAE 30, or if you can't find that, then 20w50.

The aluminum engine runs the camshaft directly on the block aluminum, without any bearing inserts such as are used in the iron engine. Aluminum makes a good cam bearing surface, but eventually they're going to wear. I'm not sure what procedure could be used to retrofit bearing inserts; Doug's a good guy to get an answer from on that.

Another aluminum-engine "gotchya" is the main bearing inserts. The feed location is different for the aluminum engine than for the iron one. The original aluminum-engine bearings had just one hole in the "aluminum block" location, while the '60-'61 iron-engine bearings had just one hole in the "iron block" location. Service replacement bearing inserts, and factory installed bearings in both kinds of engine beginning in '62, had two holes, one in each location. Most all of the aftermarket ones I've seen have the two holes, but it's entirely possible you happened upon a set with just one hole, and so are not oiling your mains. Do you happen to recall?

It's unpleasant to think about tearing down the bottom end again, but I think you'll probably find the problem when you do so...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Tried heavier oil 10w40. My pressure went from 35 to 50 psi. The knock remains the same. There are no filings in the oil when I drained it. The bearings I put in had 2 feed holes. They are universal (cast or aluminum) I made sure the oil holes lined up. The camshaft is a wear possibility but it fit into the bored holes very nicely. After all the ideas that have gone through my head on whats the matter I have decided to pull the engine out. Should have it out tonight and hopefully find the problem. I will repost my findings for everyone

Well I tore her down and found 1 really bad rod bearing. The other 5 were getting gauled up too. The main bearings had a few witness marks also. I dont know what got in there but I need to regrind the crank and put in another set of bearings. The gauling is completely across the bearing. Not just in one spot. Oh well live and learn. At least I know what a rod bearing knock sounds like now!

On the bad bearing rod, do you know if the con rod cap went on the correct way? If the cap gets "turned around" you get trouble.
Who reconditioned those con rods?
Time to take some measurments.
DD