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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 9:00 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
I recently purchased a used engine that was low mileage and supposedly in good shape. I never heard it run, so I can't vouch for it one way or the other. When I put the engine on a stand, I noticed there is oil at the rear of the engine, at the oil pan/block junction. My fear is this is the rear main seal.

I hadn't planned on pulling the engine apart, removing the pistons, etc. I was just going to drop it in. So I have a dilemma, and need some help.

Couple questions:
  • 1--What indications should I be looking for on rear main seals?

    2--Can I replace it without pulling the crank/rods/cylinders? (someone mentioned a tool called a "sneaky pete" as something that might allow me to change the seal without removing the crank?)
This wouldn't be a huge deal except that I'm moving in two weeks and was going to put this in to avoid having to haul and store a 2nd engine. Being that I'm on a tight timeline, having to replace all the bearings, etc just won't be possible without paying someone to do it all.

Thanks in advance.

MJ


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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2005 7:48 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17309
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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MJ,

You can replace the seal w/o pulling crank, etc. I would make sure the engine has enough oil in it, and tilt the engine toward the back end and let it sit overnight with a pan under it. If it has a bad main seal leak, it'll just leak out. Otherwise the leak won't be too bad (say 1qt/300 mi or better). If there's a way to run it and look for the leak, that would be the best test.

If you are worried about it, just pull the pan, pull the rear main seal retainer (alum cap at back, 12pt bolts). You can push out the upper seal with a piece of alum or brass rod (NOT steel or ferrous metal). If it's a rope seal, you can just pull it out directly. Then take the new upper seal and slide it between the crank and block a little (1cm or less in) then push slightly on the seal while having someone rotate the crank to draw the seal in. Make sure you install it with seal pointing the right way (see directions with seal kit), arrows to the rear or front. Be careful installing oil pan gaskets too and use some, but not too much, permatex to seal corners and maybe a little on rails too for insurance.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 11:03 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 5:30 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Thanks guys, that's great info! I have the engine semi-apart Lou, so its just insurance at this point. Figure why have it out with the oil pan off and NOT do the seal. You guys are the best. Hopefully the engine will get back in later this week. We shall see!

MJ


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