I don't have the original power valve - it got tossed with the old gaskets etc. when I rebuilt the carb over a month ago.

Is there a way to tell which gasket is correct. The kit had doubles of some of the gaskets. The only difference appeared to be the material they were made of. I don't recall how I chose which gasket to use. A few days after I rebuilt it I had it apart again to replace the obviously damaged accelerator pump. I also used Permatex Hylomar HPF gasket dressing to be sure I had no vacuum leaks.

Since I still have the extra gaskets and another almost complete rebuild kit (minus rubber accelerator pump), so I could give it another go. I looked at the power valves (the kit has two - one doesn't include a spring) in the second kit and they look like the what pictured in the service manual, for what it's worth anyway.

I remember years ago rebuilding a carb just like yours on my first Duster, and the carb base to manifold gasket delaminated and was sucked up into the vacuum flow lines that are etched into the bottom of the carb, thereby restricting the vacuum signal that was carried to some internal part of the carb, perhaps the power valve. . It ran like crap. I took the carb off, replaced the base gasket, and it ran perfectly.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

I've looked at the left over gaskets from the kit I used, and compared them with what my second kit has. The gaskets I didn't use have some extra holes, so it look like I may have screwed-up. I'm gonna take the carb apart again, and pay more attention and see if I managed to block something I shouldn't have.

The gasket that failed on mine was the one under the carb. Your other concerns might be valid as well. This is a common problem with these old slants. If you fuss with it long enough, you will figure it out.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

Mismatching gaskets is a common problem on these cars, especially since the carb kits cover several different variants. On my Duster I kept all of my old gaskets and compared them to the new ones. On my truck, I was less fortunate and had to take the carb apart to change one of them. The incorrect gasket blocked off my vacum advance and choke pulloff vacum ports.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Well with the possibility of my using the wrong gaskets, or the power valve being the problem I disassembled the carb. I did use the correct gaskets, but I at some point killed the power valve I had put in -



.

I replaced it and the gaskets, reassembled, and reattached the carb. Now that the power valve works the car runs properly. Thanks everyone for your help.

By the way am I not be careful enough or do the threads seem to strip easily? I've rebuilt two Carter carbs (2 BBL for a 318 and 273) before and didn't have problems with stripped threads. Originally I managed to strip one of the screw holes for the top, and now it appears the fuel inlet fitting is also stripped some.

You are most welcome. Good job on your end. It's always best to keep a clear head, calm emotional state, and stay away from napalm or guns when working something like this out.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

I'm glad you found the problem.
Yes, those bowl cover screws strip out easy. Most every one overtightens those screws, including ME. We all need to learn to be gentle with them and just barely snug them up. I have drilled and tapped some out to 12-24 size or you can get a Heli-coil kit for the original size but the kits are very expensive.

The aftermarket bowl cover gaskets are usually plain paper of some kind and they tend to weep around the edge and people think it is a leak and go tighten the screws some more and stip them out. I've had some original Holley gaskets and they have some kind of clear coating on them and they do not leak/seep/weep. I don't know if they are still available or not. You used to be able to get the bowl cover gasket by itself from Chrysler dealers. My local dealer had them in stock some years ago much to our suprise. They had the clear glossy coating on them.

I do not know of a fix for the fuel inlet threads, Replace the carburetor???

I used some stuff similar to Loctite my dad had - it's branded by Lawson, since the threads weren't completely gone. My dad drove the car today and said he didn't smell gas so we'll see how it goes. I had already been using this on the top cover screw and seemed to work well. If it doesn't hold up and I don't come up with another way to fix it I'll put on the NOS 1945 I picked-up on eBay a few weeks ago. It was cheaper then a rebuilt, and I figured I'd save it for an emergency when I really need it.

The metal Holley uses on their carbs could be a little softer then most. My dad told me one time he was working on his Super Bee, and managed to break the base of the carb tightening it down to the engine - it was a 4BBL Holley.

Good, maybe you have finally fixed the problem. I will have to tear down the carb on my Duster again pretty soon. It acts like the power valve is sticking or is not the correct gradient type.

How much did you pay for the NOS 1945? These carbs are good if you only if you have nothing else left like I do. Carter BBS is the best carb, Holley 1920 is so-so, and the 1945 is a last resort. Dan can give you a whole list of things wrong with them. Small venturi size and vacuum advance port positioning are just a few.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

My experience is they seem to be a bit lean in the part throttle area, quite noticeable after the choke is fully open and the engie is not up to FULL HOT operating temperature. Less noticeable after the engine is fully hot.

They come with vacuum advance ported to either above or below the throttle blade at idle. It depends on they year and emissions requirement. 1976 model year had a mid-year change on that I recall.

Yeah I've noticed that problem also. I jetted up two steps richer and it almost cured it. I heard somebody say that you can adjust the power valve by prying out a lead plug on top of the carb and turning the screw underneath. I will continue to tinker on mine until I can get it running like a 1920, well almost. Tempermental little bastard, I know that much.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

It was about $90, remanufactured carbs at Advance run from about that to $138 depending on rebuilder and variation. Like I said it's for emergency situations since the car is my daily driver. It was also an opportunity to get a new carb since you can't get 1BBLs new anymore. They may have their problems, but it works for me and is good enough. When I no longer find that true I'll probably do a super six upgrade.

The power valve in the GP Sorensen kit seems to work pretty well - when you don't bend it like I managed to. Looking through the kit again the other day it looks like they include two to three different ones to try to match what the carb had originally. If anything it comes with a new spring you could use with your old power valve.