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 Post subject: push rods
PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2005 8:40 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Calgary, Canada
Car Model: d100
I have a 1967 Dodge D-100 half ton with a slant six. I put a rebuilt motor in it four years ago. It was stored for the last two. I had this truck for twenty years and never had problems. Store it in the winter. It would start up first crank in the spring. This spring it started up o-k, but on the second day out , some strange noise started happening. I have a friend who looked at it and we found 3 bent push-rods. Put three new ones in it. It sounded great but ran it for a day and the same thing happened, four push rods were bent. Any suggestions? The carb was leaking a bit of gas if that had anything to do with it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 10:59 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2003 10:04 pm
Posts: 384
Location: Sacramento, CA
Car Model:
check your valve lash

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
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Usually bent pushrods are caused by valves that seize and lock the valvetrain. This is a risk with long-term storage...there are techniques to avoid its occurrence, such as fogging oil or loosening the rocker shaft bolts in winter and retightening them when it's time to wake the beast up.

Improper valve lash is not likely to be causing your problem.

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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 2:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 10043
Location: IRWIN PA
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Bent/ Broken push rods will come from stuck / Seized valves.


You either need get a shop to look at the head and maybe correct the problem in the valve guides or drive the truck a bit more.

I had an olds with a dead cylinder one itme, and the car had sat for a long time... Popped it open and noticed a stuck valve with a broken push rod. Couple of whacks with a hammer, and the valve freed up - Got a new push rod and was good.


Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 6:00 pm 
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I'll also ask: What kind of valve stem seals were installed with the rebuild? If they're the "positive" type rather than the original-equipment "umbrella" type, it's entirely possible your valve stems are underlubricated. Combine that with a bit of surface rust from sitting open, and they can easily seize.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 9:30 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Calgary, Canada
Car Model: d100
Thanks for the info. We did find a valve that doesn't seem to be completely siezed but is slow coming back up. Tried tapping with a hammer and it looked like it freed up. Put in another push rod and it seemed to run fine. Replaced valve cover, started up, but bent another rod on the same valve, which is not siezed but is slow coming back up. Could it be a bent shaft on the valve? I'm thinking I should of let it run for a while, while it was running fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2005 9:39 pm 
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Location: North America
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Does sound like you found a problematic valve. if it's slow to come back up, even with the strong valve spring a-pullin', it means either the valve is bent (not too likely!) or the valve stem-to-guide clearance is too tight.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2005 6:19 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Calgary, Canada
Car Model: d100
We couldn't get that one valve to work so changed the head today and it's running like a top! I've run slant sixes for years but am not that familiar with the internal parts, reason being they work so good. My truck has a oil bath breather on it. Are they as good as an air breather?
Ounce again thanks for the advice. Great site.
P.S.- Slant six Dan. What is fogging oil?

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