Well if anyone is following my 225 slant aluminum project here are the results of the knocking sound I had when I first fired her up....
Crap got into my main oil lines during machine work and destroyed my bearings. Crank was also shot so I got a reconditioned one. Final fee $160.00 mistake.
Put new crank and bearings in and fired her up again. 50psi at idle. Run like a champ!! Great power couldn`t be happier......wait, oil dripping under my car???? Oh crap.
Looks like my rear main is leaking badly. I followed the instructions on this web site but some thing is a mis. Anyone have any suggestions on replacing the rear main? I saw a post that said the engine did not need to be removed but I find that hard to believe. Open for suggestions...

Is there a "special" rear main seal for the aluminum engine?????

YES, maybe Doc has a picture.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Are you crapping me? There is a special rear seal for the aluminum slant 6? Man if this is true please let me know where to find one and can I install it without pulling the engine. Napa told me the seals were the same as the cast engines . I am so pissed!

I had an aluminum engine, that I never built, so I don't have hands on experiance. But I do know the rear main is special, as is the head gasket. As far as I know, it is only available in a complete gasket set, which has been dicontinued, for some time now. You will have to find someone who has one on the shelf. I sold my block and three gasket sets last year.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The rear main seal itself (the round, split-in-2-parts thing that seals the actual crankshaft) is the same. But, the rear main seal caps (or rear main seal housings) require special pieces unique to the aluminum engine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, that was my recollection too...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ahh I get it. Thank you. I have the special caps for the engine. I must have just missed a spot with the sealer. Should I pull the engine to fix it or try to repair it in position?

I think there is a funkie looking rubber seal, that goes between the upper seal retainer and the block. Looks something like this l---l

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Calls out the Oil Seal package for 225 alum as 2240 650
The regular six has its package listed as 2084 411

The parts book includes the oil seal in the figure of parts
that are "peculiar to the six cylinder aluminum engine"

There appear to be six seal parts in the aluminum 225 rear oil seal package - the upper and lower half of the rope seal and then 4 little
parts that fit to the outside corners of the seal retainer.

I say goop it up with permatex.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Bottom half of the main seal was in backwards!!! Runs great no leaks. Cant wait to break her in and head to the 1/4 mile. All the hard work in building the aluminum slant seems to have paid off. Maybe needs the timing to be tweeked a bit. Any suggestions as to what the proper settings for timing should be?

Total mechanical advance 28-32 degrees (at say 2500-3000 and above) for best power depending on your cam, comp, etc...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988