I have a 82 Dodge d150 with a 225 on it with the spark control computer.
I am trying to get rid of it, does anyone know what kind of distributor I will need? Or the change in the wiring??

Any slant six electronic ignition distributor will swap right in. Or you can put in a points distributor and replace the points with a Pertronix.

Not that sure about the wiring, I know you will have to change it but I don't know what you'll have to change.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I've done the exact swap you are. It's not bad at all... I got all the wiring diagrams from a chilton or haynes repair manual (I don't remember which had the best diagrams, or whether I used both). You will need a distributor off any slant six that didn't have the SCC (although try to get one with a single pick-up coil... they cut the housings a little different for the duals), a wiring harness, a ballast resistor, and the actual ignition box. I reccomend getting a distributor housing off E-bay (or maybe someone on this board), PAW sells the wiring harnesses for what I remember to be a very reasonable price, and the rest can be obtained from a local auto parts store. IIRC, I did the complete swap on mine for less than $150. If nobody else has followed up by this evening when I get off work I will post some more info and pics. Oh yeah... one final note... buy a new distributor gear. You'll have to go to a dealership for one, but don't even think about using the 30+ year old piece of plastic that will be on the one you buy. They don't cost that much anyway.

As far as I know, the dual-pickup distributors were used only with the spark control computer (or Lean Burn) and never with vacuum advance.
Or, better and just as cheap, an HEI module, your own wiring, and no ballast resistor!
Good advice unless the distributor you buy is new or near-new.
Huh? No. I'd be surprised if the dealer will even still sell one. These gears are widely available in the aftermarket. You can even get a nice iron one from NAPA Echlin, number DG-404.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/leanbu ... rticle.htm

That reminds me that I need to add a few more sections to the article, but it will get you going in the right direction.

The final wiring will require a wire to the starter relay terminal labeled BAL. With that, you can remove the computer completely.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Thanks everyone...I will try next week...the block is in the shop getting bored! I will let you all know! Thanks!!!

Well, in my Chilton and Haynes manuals, I have wiring diagrams for dual pickup distributors that do not have a spark control computer. There is a relay that switches between the start and run coils, as appropriate. As far as the distributor gear, I tried goin through O'Reilly (the only auto parts store in town, and also where I work), and it was made of unobtanium. The dealer said "yeah, no problem," and got it to me the next day. I have been told that it is a bad idea to use anything other than a plastic gear on the distributor because the stock cam isn't designed to take the wear of a metal gear running on it; the distributor gear is supposed to be sacrificial. (don't know if there is any truth to that though)

Er...yeah.

See Here, then toss the Haynes/Chilton junk in the trash and get a real (factory) service manual. (that's what I did the day I came across "instructions" that said to press A-body ball joints into the control arms...!)
O'Reilly carries Dorman/Motormite/Help, and all three lines have that gear in 'em. I think you got a counterman who wasn't worth his salt.
The iron distributor drive gear is factory starting in mid '84.
The oil pump drive gear is iron, always has been, and runs on the same cam worm as the distributor drive gear.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Oh yea? Says who? There is a plastic gear on my 1987 truck. I doubt an iron gear would have worn out only to be replaced by a plastic gear.

Sez the Mopar parts catalogues and the Echlin book, too (that's why the iron gear's in the Echlin line...)

But I have zero problem believing you found a nylon gear in an '87. The jig was pretty much up for the slant-6 by '84, and most of us have seen plenty of examples of Chrysler's tendency to just use up whatever leftover parts would fit in the final few years of a car or engine. Who knows why they introduced the iron gear in mid '84? The nylon gear worked just fine for decades. *shrug*

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have to disagree with you... just because I can find it in the companies catalog doesn't mean I can order it. Perfect example: Sierra makes replacement parts for outboards. It clearly lists a waterpump impeller for my 9.8 mercury outboard in their catalog. It even shows that they have them in the warehouse I order out of. Yet, when I ordered them, I recieved a phone call saying that they were unavailable. Not back ordered. Unavailable.

And as far as the Chilton/Haynes manual, they are not worthless. They are certainly far from gospel, but if you have a basic idea of what you are doing, they definetly have their uses. (such as the aforementioned wiring diagrams) I would be willing to bet that more people (not mechanics) have fixed more cars using a combination of the two than any other book (FSM or otherwise). Not to mention the fact that my truck is now a composite of several years worth of equipment, which the aftermarket manuals atleast give me a hint about. This post is a perfect example of such: does the FSM for a 1982 D150 even mention a single pick-up distributor with non-SCC control? Let alone if you wanted to do this to say, a '87 or so.

As to the plastic/metal gear issue, I have only one question... do you follow the factory's instructions and drill a completely new hole through the entire shaft when installing your new gear? Personally, I found it a better idea to reuse the existing hole (which is not drilled dead center), which I could line up much easier using a slightly transparent plastic gear. I don't see how you could do this (easily) with a metal gear, and I don't see how you could redrill the hole in the shaft more than a couple of times without causing serious problems.

Edit:
Here is the wiring diagram I used when converting my truck. It filled in the only gaps that I still had from reading this forum and other places.
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We'll have to agree to disagree on that score.
Absolutely yes, it's essential to do so with the plastic gear, for the factory hole is way too far up the shank of the gear, and using it creates massively excessive endplay and completely inadequate distributor/cam gear engagement.
You don't have to, with the metal gear, which is drilled (all the way across; 2 holes) in the correct position.

As far as availability issues, I know for a fact that the slant-6 distributor gear is (actually, really) available in the parts lines mentioned. A bad counterman can spoil even the best parts line.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Any Manual is better than nothing..............


The factory manual has more detail.

The Chiltons,Haynes, Clymer, etc. cover more range, which can be a good thing when you start getting mongrels........

Sometimes with the composite manual, another make's section gives you the answer....

I have an old Motor Manual ('55 or so) for various makes.. It has the best troubleshooting section of any manual I have. It shows you how things are assembled that are just commonly replaced nowdays....

Wish I could find my grandfathers old '34 manual (it's in a box somewhere) it had the best writeups on how things worked and could be fixed (rather than replaced)

But I will say if you're allowed only ONE manual, you need the factory manual...

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes