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 Post subject: breaker points.
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 5:59 am 
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what are the known symptoms of a bad breaker point gapping ????

What are the sympyons of a change-needing breaker points ?????

(i changed mine about 2 YRS ago ). the car is a daily-driven car, that was sitting for about six months; it started to backfire throught carb; after replacing ballast,dist cap, setting the igntioin timing ( 6 BTDC) , clean the carb & change gasket & accel pump, yet it keep backfiring thorugh carb randomly; sometimes it carnks OK; sometimes it backfires .........

it is a BIG HEADACHE.... i'm gonna to be CRAZY

Would a breaker points replacement solve this problem ????

or should i verify other stuffs ????. I got tracked down all the way 'till the spark plugs, where i get spark, and it looks like all is good, but i can't realize myself what could be the cause of this backfire, that is RANDOM. ( sometimes happens, sometimes not ), and it is likely it happens when i START the engine........

My car is a Dodge Coronado 79, a slant sixer here in Argentina.

Thanx!!!!


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 Post subject: Re: breaker points.
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 7:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Quote:
what are the known symptoms of a bad breaker point gapping ????

What are the sympyons of a change-needing breaker points ?????

(i changed mine about 2 YRS ago ). the car is a daily-driven car,
Then yes, you are overdue for a new set of breaker points. Or, an electronic ignition conversion.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 8:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
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Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
If you stick with points, make sure you change the condenser, too, now matter how new it is or good it "looks". ...don't ask me how I know. :lol:

D/W

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:34 am 
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You can get a quick diagnostic of the condenser's suitability for the application by using the "minus-minus-minus" rule.

If the minus (ground, stationary) point is minus metal (pitted, there's a divot in it), then the condenser is minus capacity (underspecced).

The obverse is the "plus-minus-plus": if the plus (positive, movable) point is minus metal (pitted, there's a divot in it), then the condenser is plus capacity (overspecced).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:46 am 
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Yes, The breaker points looks like new.......... it is not indicative of anything ??? Say, they could be toasted, anyway ???? What is the indicative of TOASTED breaker points ?

Really, i didn't knew that the points could long so little time.......i know that it depends on the status of the rest of the ingition components ( say balast, coil , etc ), but too little.......

I'll try the points...... changing a new condenser and point set and see what happens........ for instance, what should be the factory point gap ?? I read somewhere that it must be 0.021" for the slant six....
is it correct ?


MANY MANY THX!!!!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:57 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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I believe the points should be gapped at .020". Don't forget to adjust your timing when replacing points. As points wear, timing and dwell changes. You should change them at least once a year.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
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Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
...most important is the dwell (a function of gap). Should be 41 to 46 degrees on a slant six. I like a gap of about .017 -.019, usually results in a dwell of 45 -46 degrees on a six, but of course that varies slightly from distributor to distrubutor depending on lobe condition. Just replace the condenser whenever you replace points, just like our pops told us to! :idea:

D/W

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