Just acquired a '74 Dart Swinger with a solid 225 slant 6. Guy I bought it from says carb was screwed up. Brought it home, found split rubber fuel line along frame. Replaced line & it runs fine now. The air cleaner that is on it is not original. Looks like a few hoses from carb to ????? missing & hose that I believe would run from valve cover (rear) to some where on original air cleaner missing.

I'm 58 years old and when I worked on cars all you just about had to do was bolt on a new part & that was that. I know nothing about emissions! I tried looking for Chiltons book but no luck.

Any body have photo or diagram of this vintage or know where I can get one so I have an idea of what goes where?

1 bbl carb, automatic trans.

I'll see if I can get a pic of mine. (It's not quite right.)
You should be able to get a Haynes manual easily. It's not the most help, but better than nothing. Haynes 30050. Dodge, Plymouth & Chrysler 1971 thru 1989 RWD inline six and v8...
The Factory service manuals are better.

Do you still have your Vacuum amplifier? It's a round bakelight device w/three or four ports. Should be mounted on-top of the head next to the valve cover. (kind-of in the middle.)
There is a CCEGR valve that mounts to the radiator which has two vac lines to it. One goes to the Vac Amplifier, bottom left nipple, Black w/blue stripe. The top one runs to the EGR valve, Black w/White stripe.. The CCEGR valve is simply a temperature control that doesn't allow the EGR to open until the engine comes up to operating temperature.
The Vacuum amplifier is hooked to venturi (or ported) vacuum. This is the port that only opens when the butterfly is off idle. This is Black w/ Yellow stripe.
Manifold vac is routed to the Vac amplifier from a fitting toward the firewall, out of the top of the intake manifold. It goes to the uppermost/ toward the rear of the engine compartment nipple on the Vac Amplifier on a federal vehicle. Otherwise you have a vac delay that should be on black w/orange stripe.
It's a fairly difficult system to follow from verbal description. If you still have the original hoses, they will have the colored stripes.
The federal vacuum circuits are different from the California circuits slightly. I haven't found a good description of this.

Like I said, my vacuum sytem is a bit changed. I'm running from ported vac directly to my distributor. The EGR is non-op on my system, though I still have all the connectors and hardware. It all goes away for the Exhaust system that is waiting in the wings.

Not much help, but a start.

CJ

Thanks much!!!!

Good detail on your description & was able to locate everything.

Also, could not locate Haynes book but local NAPA store ordered one for me and I should be geeting it in about 7-10 days.....

Thanks again...

No problem!
Just remember, my car isn't quite right. It might take a bit of experimentation to get things correct.
The distributor signal is supposed to come off a temperature solenoid built onto the aircleaner. Since you don't have that part, you should be able to tee into the ported vacuum.
Pick up some vac plugs for stuff that isn't going to be hooked to anything.

Have fun!

CJ

Found hose missing from carb to EGR & also after following all your leads, decided to see if he put a odd ball muffler on due to the rumble. Found out he ran a pipe to a thrush muffler & the catalytic converter missing.

Was able to tweak it up so it's driveable but now gotta restore the exhaust.


Thanks again for the help.

1974 Darts and Valiants never had a catalytic converter.

Yep, the FSMs are way, way, way better, and are cheaply and easily available from eBay or www.autolit.com. If you absolutely have to have a Haynes book, get the one applicable to your car, which is not the one mentioned above, but rather is this 1967-1976 Dart/Valiant item

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

As has been mentioned, no catalytic converter on any 1974 Dart, ever. Do not install one.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Just a clarification;

The EGR circuit runs off the temperature solenoid in the Radiator. The signal to the Temperature solenoid runs from the output of the Vac amplifier.
The Vacuum Amplifier is controlled by the Venturi Vacuum signal, and applies manifold Vacuum to the Temperature Solenoid as throttle is applied.

You don't want the EGR to open unless the throttle is open and the engine is up to operating temperature.

Did I say that right?

CJ

You have already bypassed the OSAC valve havn't you? Just follow the vacum line from the distributor back to the carb. Anything inline should be disconnected.

How does it sound with the Thrush muffler?

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2