1970 Barracuda slant six

After removing the new M Perf distribuitor to replace a early 60's distribuitor hold down with a later model. It will not fire, we had set the timing at 32 total advance and it ran great prior to this endeavor. I have repaced ignition switch spliced new connectors at the column to dash harnesses. new engine and forward light harness new coil new ECU, dual ballast res and swapped a known good distribuitor. Sometimes it will spark when the key is turned to the on position and then again when it is turned off. when the switch is turned to the start position we lose voltage at the ballast resistor on the ( I-1,, run?? side of the resistor. I think start is I-2 to the coil full 12v). When the switch is in the on position we have 12 + at the dual resistor and 7to 8 at the coil, We are totally baffeled as it seems we have voltage where we should have.

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Once I thought I made a mistake, But I was wrong,-- Famous last words,, Hey Yall,,Watch This!!

What shape is your bulkhead connector and wiring in? It's quite possible with corroded terminals to get a proper voltage reading on a meter, but the bad connectors will not pass enough current to do the task at hand. Did you clean the connectors before plugging in the new harnesses, and did the harness insertion displace the termonals in the bulkhead connector. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but it just seems that you aren't getting the current you need, voltage notwithstanding.

Or I might be wrong.

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!