Is it normal for my voltmeter to jump from 13ist to 15 volts depending on my rmps? At idle I get about 13.5 volts on my guage but it jumps up and down consistently, even as far down as 11 volts. Then when I am driving it is steady at just under 15 volts because the engine rpms are up. At night my lights flicker as well.

When I rebuilt my engine I replaced the voltage regulator, installed an msd 6a, and changed the alternator with a rebuilt unit. I've been looking for bad grounds or damaged wires but nothing has helped so far.

Anyone have any ideas?

_________________
73' Duster 225
<img src="http://longrod.moparpages.com/enginedone.JPG" width=200>

No.
Bad alternator, bad regulator, and/or bad voltage regulator ground.
Very likely the problem. "Rebuilt" parts from the parts store are junk.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'd look for a loose connection. A lot of those connectors that just plug together get the metal thingys spread open and then they fit loose. Squeeze them all tighter and put them together again.

Also check for loose nuts that hold the wires to the amp gauge in the dash but disconnect the battery first, those wires are live anytime the battery is connected.

Thanks,

I've been going through the engine compartment and removing all the crimped insulated connectors and replacing them with soldered and shrink tubed ones but so far there has been no change. Also, I have made sure the voltage regulator has been well grounded by sanding behind it to bare metal.

Where can I get a quality alternator and voltage regulator? When I went to autozone all they had were duralast remanufactured ones and the regulator was made by wells I think.

_________________
73' Duster 225
<img src="http://longrod.moparpages.com/enginedone.JPG" width=200>

Nope. You need to run a wire from the regulator base to the alternator housing (and, preferably, another wire from the regulator base to the battery negative terminal).
Here's a brand new one that'll work for you.

Or, get This one and take it to a local auto electrical house to have it carefully rebuilt by a qualified auto electrician.
Not hard to get good ones. Echlin, Standard-Bluestreak...even the Wells stuff works OK. You working with a '70-up or a '69-down charging system?
Yep...pure junk.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

This is for my 73' Duster. I am going to take care of the voltage regulator ground right now, I bet that is my problem.

Thanks a lot for the info Dan, I really appreciate it.


Edit:

I ran a ground wire going from the V.R. to the negative battery terminal and another to the alternator but I still have the problem.

Are there any new alternators that would work that I could order from say Summit or Jegs?

_________________
73' Duster 225
<img src="http://longrod.moparpages.com/enginedone.JPG" width=200>

Why go from LA to SF via Topeka...? I just showed you a brand-new alternator that'll bolt right in and work great, or a rebuildable used one...

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Simply because I'm not looking to buy an alternator by the time that auction ends and frankly, I don't like dealing with ebay. So I was curious if there was another supplier that I could buy from whenever I'm ready.

_________________
73' Duster 225
<img src="http://longrod.moparpages.com/enginedone.JPG" width=200>

Well, you can buy some "universal" pig in a poke from Jeg's or Summit and mess around adapting it...seems like it'd be a lot more trouble in the end, though.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nope. You need to run a wire from the regulator base to the alternator housing (and, preferably, another wire from the regulator base to the battery negative terminal).

Why is this nessacery (why cant I spell that?) ???
I Have never had a wire going from my VR!!
Then again now that I recall, my needle does like to jump quite drasticly, but not below where it should.

How about taking the alternator you have now to a good local rebuilder? I work in the industry and have been lucky enough to see firsthand the quality of work some put out, thanks to my employers. There are some "old masters" out there, find a shop you trust and ask them who does their starters and alternators. It takes a skilled hand to build a good alternator, if you pay for it you can get that personal touch.

Speaking of which, I wish it was Friday.

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Put on your asbestos undies and then go read.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

alright, that does make sense!

I went and got my alterntor tested at autozone and they say it's good. Is it possible that my alternator is to small and that is what is causing my lights to flicker and low volts at idle? It is only a 43 amp unit.

_________________
73' Duster 225
<img src="http://longrod.moparpages.com/enginedone.JPG" width=200>

All that tells you is that the alternator puts out volts and amps. It does not tell you if the output is steady ("clean") or spiky and flickery ("dirty"). It doesn't tell you if the output is up to spec. Autozone's "tests" are not diagnostic.
No, your alternator is not "too small". There is something the matter with your system. Wiring problem(s), regulator problem(s), and/or alternator problem(s). Once you find and fix the problem(s), the flicker will go away.
That's more than plenty for most slant-6 vehicles. Only if you're running extreme accessories (high-wattage lights, high-wattage stereos, winches, etc.) would you need more than this. Remember, stock alternator outputs from '60 through '71 or so were between 25 and 40 amps!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.