head is out of the machine shop with the "oops" taken care of. new studs on both far end exhaust holes. now...
to use or not to use gasket sealant stuff.
on the new head gasket? on the intake and exhaust manifold gasket? which goop? where to put it? how much?
any other handy stuff to do while i got all this apart?

Head to block gaskets don't need goop.
As for the manifold to head gaskets, some goop, some don't.
Some just put a little around the intake ports, some do them all.
I'd follow the gasket manufacturer's recomendations. If it leaks, then try some.
You have to remember, the manifolds "float" on the valve head, and have to have some room to move as the engine heats up.
Be *sure* not to over-tighten the mounting nuts, or the manifolds will crack when they try to move. I believe the torque spec is only 10/12 ftlbs. Also be sure to use the correct triangle-shaped washers in the correct places. The very end studs also take special conical shaped nuts and counter sunk washers. Very important.
Did you replace the metal gasket between the intake and exhaust manifold? It can be a lot of trouble.
Also check the manifold to exhaust pipe flange mating surface and be sure it's flat. File or mill if need be.
There is also a big flapper-type door in the exhaust manifold, be sure it moves freely.
You should also check for "sag" on the manifolds. The center of the manifold can sag over time. Check by dry-fitting the manifolds on the studs. The studs need to have clearance all around them or it can bind as it expands. Careful filing can open the holes, but don't get carried away.
Do searches for valve jobs and manifold gaskets, there have been lots of threads about this.

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aed
/6>V8

I like an evenly-applied layer or two of spray Copper Cote on the head and manifold gaskets. Other stuff to do? Sure: Pick up enough *brass* nuts to take care of all the manifold-to-head studs!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Good call on the brass nuts, Dan.
I'd forgot that I used them when I did FURTHER's valve job.
I found them at NAPA, and they'll keep you from stripping another stud, or block. The nut will strip 1st.

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aed
/6>V8

While Felpro claims that their gaskets don't require sealant unless the seal three surfaces at once, Mega Black is great stuff... I would reccomend it around all of the ports, on both sides of the gasket. Make sure and let it get tacky before you assemble everything. Additionally, remember that the bolts/nuts holding the manifolds to each other should be torqued to 35 ft/lbs as a final measure.

well
when i took the intake and exhaust off, there was already one stud (far firewall one) wrung off in the head. all the other nuts broke loose with no problem. the other far end stud (radiator side) came out of the block with the conical nut attached firm. now... when i dropped off the head at the machine shop to have the stuck stud drilled out, he did a wonderful job. he didnt break anything, and in fact, in an hour, he had the easy out..out, the stud out, and didnt have to re-thread anything. trouble is, he put new studs in BOTH far ends of the head where the cone nut goes. me not knowing about the cone nut situation was happy with the lockwashers, and standard looking shiny new nuts for the replaced studs. is this setup and nut selection going to be a problem?

More than likely.
Regular nuts will work except for the end studs. Go to a boneyard if you have to.
Forget the lock washers.
I repeat, use the search function and read everything you can about this.
If you crack a manifold, you might as well throw it out.

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aed
/6>V8

Not a guarantee, but you might two nuts on each side; an oversized one that slides over and serves as a washer, followed by a standard sized nut w/ loc-tite on it.

Loctite is no good with temp. over 120 C.

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23

Not exactly, Loctite # 266 = 450F/232C

You don't want to put loctite or any threadlocker on these nuts, the whole idea is to remove them easily w/o any damage.

I just finished my super six and did not use any goop on the head to the manifold. Re read the article by Reed Speir on the section on gaskets. I got the thick one from Napa and it seals fine. Let it slide...

I did have to use some between the intake and exhaust manifolds. I used the high temp copper. Everything went smooth -- just put some never seize(?) on the studs.

Be sure to use a good torque wrench and not overtighten.

I am now getting 18mpg with a lot more power over the entire spread.

Please consider putting on larger pipes. I went to 2 1/4 and it sounds
great..

Good luck with yours.

Matt

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67 Dart GT convertible
"225 Slant 6"
Super 6 and 2.25" exhaust.