Superstat;always get the superstat;always! everytime! Superstat.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

And sometimes, after 40 years, stuff just stops working correctly. For instance the gas gauge in my old '64 didn't work. The temperature gauge didn't measure the temp any more, put it worked very well measuring the fuel level. When it was "hot" the tank was full, when it was "normal" it was time to fill her up. By the way, the insturment panel plug was wired correctly, the circuit board was in fair shape and the gauges were in the correct location and everything was grounded correctly. Like I said, an incestous relationship.

I have owned Chrysler products since the mid '70s. On A-bodies it was always a miracule when the fuel and tempature gauges worked. One of the things that I would look at when buying one, was what type of wipers did it have (variable speed was always better) and does the fuel gauge work. The '76 Dart Sport that I once owned had the worst wiring of any Chrysler that I had ever owned. It had continous electrical problems. To the point that I didn't shed a single tear when I sold it off to some poor unspecting fool.

Kesteb, if you built and installed the solid state regulator in Ehrenberg's article and still have erratic gauges, you almost certainly have a grounding problem. I drilled a 1/4" hole high on my firewall and ran a 1/4"x20x2.5" stainless steel bolt with the head cut off and about an inch of thread showing on both sides. I used a stainless internal toothed washer on each side next to the firewall and a stainless nut on each side to hold the bolt in place. Then I ran all my underdash grounds (radio, instrument cluster and "knee knocker" A/C to the bolt with 1/4" inside toothed lock washers between the ring terminals from the ground points. Then, on the firewall side, I ran a twisted pair of 14 gauge green wires to the negative terminal of the battery. I also plan on extending that firewall side arrangement for lights and relay grounds. Old cars held together with old sheet metal screws and welds that may be cracking can lead to unreliable grounds. In order for current to flow, there must be a good return path to the battery. Overkill??? sure! But overkill beats no kill every time!!!

And for you electrical geniuses out there, yes I know that current flows from negative to positive. That is why we disconnect the negative battery cables before doing electrical work.

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Good work (but why a twisted pair...?). Did you extend your ground loop to include the voltage regulator base and alternator housing?
Amen. *clink*
Actually...the reason why we disconnect the negative battery cable before the positive has nothing to do with the direction of current flow. If you disconnect the positive battery cable first, you're putting a wrench on a terminal that is hot with respect to virtually every piece of metal within wrench-length's reach. Swing the wrench too far, drop the wrench, sneeze and jerk the wrench, and you're looking at hundreds of amps flowing through the wrench in a big hurry. The wrench will quickly weld itself in place, your hand can turn into a handburger, and you can have a real emergency on your hands in a couple blinks of an eye.

If you disconnect the negative cable first, you only have to worry about the location of the wrench relative to the positive battery terminal. All other metal in the vicinity is in common with the ground terminal, so even if you misplace the wrench, nothing bad will happen. This is worth considering when installing the battery cable terminals: Try and clock them such that when you put a wrench on the negative terminal clamp nut, it swings in an arc that does not move the other end of the wrench towards the positive terminal.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Installing a solid state IVR will not magically make worn out gauges work correctly. But then the great Ehrenberg has spoken, so that must make it so.

The gauges were marginal to begin with and 40 years of usage hasn't improved them. Chrysler made the gauges good enough to outlast the warranty period and maybe make it thru the payment period before they broke. Standard Detroit practice, lowest cost engineering at its best.

There is no magic, black or otherwise, in these cars that links the gauges in question. That includes age. When they seem to work or not work together, look at what systems they share. Straightforward troubleshooting technique. This is a clue that lead us to suggest that the problem is linked, and is probably in the wiring common to both. IVR and grounds are often the weak links.
My temp and fuel gauges quit at the same time. I solved the problem with the solid state IVR before I read Ehrenberg's article. IF that hadn't worked, I would have been checking voltage to the IVR, and its own ground - all the common wiring.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO