Car was running great. The next day I go to start it and theres nothing. No clicking, no lights. Gaurantee the battery is good. I took it out and it started another car just fine. What could be the problem? I wiggled every wire near the starter and fuse box but I just cant get any power. 1962 dodge lancer GT.....disgruntled

Check the integrity of the ground wire that goes from the negative battery terminal to the engine block. Also check the positive wire that goes from the battery terminal to the starter relay box. I believe that power for the rest of the vehicle (lights, etc) taps off at the starter relay.

Besides the wires themselves, there could be corrosion underneath the terminals where they connect to either the block or the starter relay.

-Mac

Fusible link too.

Those firewall connectors are dang pesky sometimes.

I'm not sure how the ammeter was setup in a car that early, but check the wiring going to it as well.

Once in a while I get a dome light. It is not always. Seems like if I let the car sit for 15 minutes I get the dome light to come on by opening the door. Then when I do anything like try the starter or the lights it goes off and stays off for a while. I used a test light and I have power from bat to starter and starter to firewall but I dont know where it goes from there? I tried to cross the starter terminals with a screw driver but I got nothing at all. Not even a spark

No fusible link until late '63 production. If you're smart, you add one (or a main fuse) to a pre-late-'63 car.
Same as it was up through '70 in the big cars, up through '75 in the A-bodies: All vehicle current goes through the ammeter. So yes, that's a prime suspect here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

where is the ammeter?

It's the gauge in the instrument cluster that says "ALTERNATOR". There are two stud-and-nut connections on the back of it, through which all vehicle current flows. If those connections fail, either on the back of the ammeter or within it, you'll get your symptoms. You may want to bypass the ammeter and see if the power comes back.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ammeter, If I use a test light should I get voltage there? Also how do I bypass it????

They are ring terminals on studs, to bypass it you undo the nuts so the rings come off, make sure to sand the ends to remove any corrosion, then use a short screw/nut (with lock washer) to join the rings. Then of course make sure to insulate appropriately.

Yes, a testlight should light up assuming the connection between the two wires is solid.

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DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS!! You won't like the results if you don't.

Roger

OK I put a test light on the ammeter and I have power there. I then bypassed the ammeter like I was told and I still have nothing. What next?

Something is loose somehwere.

Start at the bulkhead connectors. Also, try shifting into neutral and starting there - sometimes a mal-adjusted shift linkage will be off just enough to open the neutral safety switch.

I had issues with the gear selector when I redid the tranny, but I always had lights. Why dont I have lights? I pulled out the firewall connectors and cleaned them with electrical cleaner. They actually looked good. I wiggled every wire that I can think of. I even played with the door dome light buttons to see if they had bad grounds or something.

Problem solved. Thanks all. Bad positive cable going to starter. Looked fine but must have had a partial break in it not allowing enough current to go through.