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 Post subject: msd 6a wiring
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 10:00 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
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i just got me a md 6a box and need a little help on how to wire. what wires do i use to trigger the box.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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if you already got yourself an electronic dist this will be a piece of cake. I suggest you get rid of that ballast resistor. Did you get a blaster II coil? OK here´s what I´ve done:

I soldered together I1 and I2 ignition circuits right from the ignition switch. I used those 2 wires coming out of the firewall to feed the light gauge red wire. Then I ran the heavy red and black to the battery, chopped off the connector outta the white wire (my theft deterrent is a .44 hehheeh) and isolated it, then cut the black and orange leads (coil) to proper lenght (always use solder on connectors or pro quality crimping stuff, the best wuality comes already dipped in solder. at least down here...) I layed the box ontop of the inner passg fender, electronic dist and tach connectors facing front of the car, the other stuff pointing the firewall. When you solder your dist connector, make sure you twist together those wires to avoid interference. One more tip: replace your dist cap and rotor while you're at it (get an extra spring lenght rotor, so the damned thing ain't chew up the contact on your cap) and nice 8mm resistor core wires. NOT SOLID BRASS! My car has raised comp and other goodies, say in the 9:1 ballpark, I have my spark plugs (NGK japan B5 something I believe) gaped 1.20 mm and it works just great.
Hpe this helps. Juan

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Juan Ignacio Caino

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 11:52 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
http://www.msdignition.com/downld1.htm

Includes pictures................... 8)

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2005 9:45 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
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well i'm still a litte lost. i get that two wires run to the battery and one to an ignition and then two go on the coil. but from here what do i go. i use the white wire? or the other two and how do i hook them up? sorry to aks an easy question but i'm lost and still learning how things work


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2005 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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Any wires you don't use you, well, don't use. Insulate and get them out of the way.

The manual states if you are using the violet/green magnetic pickup connector you don't use the white wire.

Page 20 has pictorial diagrams for chrysler, and page 5 has a breakdown wire by wire. Theres also instructions on how to use the dual ballast chrysler unit if thats your aim as well


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2005 10:08 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
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thats just it i don't know for sure what wires to use i? 73 with an electronic dist I' believe. i'm not sure what magnetic pickup is and if i have it.
should i wire it use the use the dual ballast. Now that i now i have one already on the firewall


i'm still learning on how things work


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2005 11:22 pm 
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Location: CA
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If you already have the dual balast, yea sure stick to that plan.

Yes, electronic ignition distributors have magnetic pickups. The reluctor, wheel that spins on the center shaft, has 6 points on it. As the points pass by the magnet, it creates a pulse to trigger whatever you hook up to it.

Points distributors don't have this wheel, they have a set of points that open and close once per cylinder ignition.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 3:43 am 
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Location: Argentina
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don't use the pain in the ass ballast

wire as indicated on "Installing to a Distributor or Crank Trigger" diagram. Where it sez from the original coil + wire in the diagram, dont pay any attention. Use both ignition circuits on your key together to feed the small gauge read wire coming out of the MSD box. Got the pic? you can get those two circuits (two separate wires) binded together at the ignition key wiring.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 11:56 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
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i know it may be easy but i really dont want to mess any so i ask if this might work or is it back wards can you show me i so i know what i'm doing. it's my one and only diver that i dont want to mess up with cuting wires i shouldnt have
Image


Last edited by moparDuster on Thu Sep 01, 2005 12:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Bad link.........
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 12:08 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Your link doesn't work....

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 6:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
Well, do this: (this will get that ballast outta the way, since is your daily driver that means greatly improved trustability of your ignition sistem)

Connect the violet and (green?) wires that have a kinda swuare socket to your stock distributer (the manual sez wich one is the positive, be sure to keep the polarity right) on your dist, the black one is (-)

then the 2 heavy black and red straight to your battery (straight straight, no splicing or splitting on other cable)

Then, connect the light red one to both I1 and I2 circuits (those are leading 12 v to one side of the ballast when in contact but not running and the other carries 12v straight when running. You can use a grounded lightbulb for checking wich one carries 12v when in contact and when in run position of the ignition key)

and you're good to go. And keeping outta the way undependable items such as the ballast. Remove your stock ignition, coil and ballast. If you want to do it the big way, splice the cable pack that runs on the side of your valvle cover, remove the ignition sys cables and pack it together again using non adehesive nylon tape, then run all the ignition branch on a separated pak.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 8:08 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
Car Model:
I'm really sorry to ask you this but i'm still a little lost on setting up the msd. so i would get rid of the coil, ecu and the ballast resistor? but what triggers the spark? the msd box?

sorry to ask but i'm learneing


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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There´s nothing wrong with asking a lots of questions when in doubt. Is way smarter than giving things for understood or granted and f**k up something big time. Let's see... hope this may help

Image

where is clear that you have to

A) use your I 1 + I 2 ignition switch circuits to provide power to your MSD box thru switched 12 v source. I1 will feed the box when in contact and I 2 when running. If you use only one of those, the car will crank, start and die or just crank and not start.

B) connect the "heavy" red and black wires straight to the battery.

C) connect your orange and black wires (small gage) to your MSD blaster 2 coil

D) connect you violet and green wires out of the MSD box to the black and white wires coming from your electronic distributer. Check your book for polarity. I don't recall if the green is th (+) or the (-), but the (+) should be connected to the white or orange wire coming from your dist and the (-) cable to the black one.

E) the white wire coming out of the MSD box in the same pack thru the same hole that most of the wires are coming out should be isolated. If you want to have a theft deterrent, you can connect this wire to a switch and the other end of the switch to ground. If this wire is grounded, the car will crank but won't start.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject: Thank you
PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 3:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
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just wanted to thank you for the help. just wanted to be sure i knew what i was doing.What a difference. glad i have head rest wasn't ready for it to kick me back like it did. now i cant wait to get the super six on. just have to figure out what i need to do with the kick down rod running into the header

hers what i did was easy thanks once again.
i went to the junk yard cut off a wire the connected with the distributer then connected the violet and green wires for easy change out if i ever wish to go back stock every thing else just has it should battery and coil.

but i had troubles finding I1 and I2 from what i found is a green and brown wire that would go to the ballast resistor theres on power going to them unless the ignition is on.. i have unpluged the ecu and the voltage regulator put have yet to take out the wires.

thanks again made things go easy and made me feel like i kewn what i ws doing.


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 Post subject: Re: Thank you
PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 5:47 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:09 am
Posts: 132
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Quote:
jbut i had troubles finding I1 and I2 from what i found is a green and brown wire that would go to the ballast resistor theres on power going to them unless the ignition is on.. i have unpluged the ecu and the voltage regulator put have yet to take out the wires.
Ummm


You need the voltage regulator....Leave that ALONE!
That tells your altinator to charge the battery..your gona have a dead battery in a few miles with out it!


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