i recently posted on here about my rebuilt slant six not cranking. i have tried everything. i put the bolt in the center to no avail and tried using the little bolt holes around the pulley and only succeded in cracking the pully(thats alot of force) i am completely stumped as to why this happened.
when i rebuilt it i put in new rod bearings and piston rings and i made sure everything was oiled really well. do you guys have any ideas, theories, suspicions as to why this would happen? any help would be greatly appriciated.


Rory

You're probably going to have to pull the engine back out one way or another.
Once it's out, try to turn it. If it turns, look at the installation, torque converter, flexplate, etc.
If not, pull the pan and timing cover. Check valve timing. Check the main and rod caps for proper installation. Loosen the mains and the rods one at a time, while trying to turn the crank each time.
My guess is incorrect journal/bearing sizing, or ring broken/stuck on installation.
sixinthehead

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I saw someone build an engine using the original piston with news rings. He didn't clean the ring groove in the pistons the carbon artificially increased the piston bore and made the pistons stick solid.

Did the engine turn over by hand, after it was all assembled, but before being installed?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
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What kind of vehicle is the engine installed in?
The problem may be a revirsed or incorrectly positioned rod or main cap.
The con rod and main caps are numbered and must be returned to their correct places and be installed in the way they came-off. (look at the bearing "tabs" the tabs position together, on the same side.

You may be able to drop the oil pan and check / rework the cap positioning from under the car. If the piston ring grooves were not cleaned, pull the engine and re-do the rebuild.
DD

First check- something in the bellhousing binding up (clutch, flex-plate, torque convertor).

Second check- did you measure the clearances on those bearings? Did you keep the same rod caps with the same rods, the same main caps on the same mains?

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i did not keep track of the rod bearing caps. i was unaware that they went on in any order. how do i match them up in the right place? this is my first real engine rebuild and im doing it alone so i kinda expected to mess somthing up somewhere. i really appreciate all the help.

I think the fsm has illustrations - i maybe able to take a pic of an assembled engine I have with no oil pan on.

Someone had assembled my engine with one crank bearing cap on backwards once and the only wya to turn the engine was ratchet and long pipe, starter wouldn't budge it

...Connecting rods have switched up caps? What about the main caps? They all need to be put back in the EXACT same position and on the same rod....You should tear it down and redo it, shouldn't take but a few days, hopefully the crank isn't scored (scratched up)... the connecting rods' crank journals aren't "round" anymore, you changed the caps...

didn't you keep making sure the engine would turn as you added each piston/rod assembly? you need to do that anyway to get to each journal...

dont worry about it, start over...

wow your going to have to do some detective work to find which bearing cap goes on which rod. If you cant figure it out take them all to the machine shop to get resized. The same goes with the main caps. Also when you put the engine together and are redoing the crankshaft installation use some plastiguage you don't want any less than one and a half thousands between the crank journal and the bearing one thousands is pushing it and will make an engine tight. Remember to check and recheck with the plastiguage. I commend you on doing the job yourself but don't be too assumptious if your not sure of something then ask someone thats done it before

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