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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 10:09 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
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I threw a new carb kit at my 1920 today. I totaly disassembled the unit, including removing the throttle plate, choke plate, vent assembly, etc so it was just a bare casting. I reassembled everything the way it came apart....I thought. Reinstalled on car and now it will not idle below 1000 rpm! Its like the throttle blade is not closing all the way, as the idle screw is not touching the carb body like it should. Is there more than one way to install the throttle blade? Could the accelorator pump arm be the incorrect length?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
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Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
...you went wrong by taking the throttle plate out when there was no need to do so. Take the carb off, back out the curb idle screw all the way, loosen the screws (you did get replacement brass screws and re-stake them, right?) and wiggle the plate until it seals securely in the bore. Retighten screws and stake them if you didn't already. I doubt you put the plate in backwards, but you may have installed it upside-down. The angle around the edge of the blade is oriented for maximum sealing effect with the throttle in the fully closed position.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!


Last edited by Dennis Weaver on Tue Sep 27, 2005 11:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 11:05 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
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...you went wrong by taking the throttle plate out when there was no need to do so. Take the carb off, back out the curb idle screw all the way, loosen the screws (you did get replacement brass screws and re-stake them, right?) and wiggle the plate until it seals securely in the bore. Retighten screws and stake them if you didn't already.

D/W
Ditto.............

been there done that.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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Yup, DW and Emsvitil are right.

for the future, each time that you feel like removing throttle shaft, do a mark on one side that you'll recognize (I usually scrap an X with my screwdriver) then, you install the assy again w/o tightening the screws, and you open and close it and wiggle with the longitudinal shaft position til it fells in nice, then without opening it again (applying a sealing force) you tighten up the screws.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:34 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
*Sigh* Guess I'll be tearing into it again! I also found a small leak at the bottem of the bowl...think its warped. Luckly I have another! Thanks for the replies.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 9:20 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
Fixed! I removed the carb, loosened the screws holding the throttle blade on the shaft and let the weight of the linkage assembly (on the end of the shaft) close the blade, and then tightened the screws. Idles just fine now! I retapped the bottem hole the screw that holds the bowl goes into and its nice and tight now. I also rigged up a cool air set up from some extra dryer hose my old man had laying around....its silver to! :lol: Someday I'll do it right and get a proper air cleaner...one thats round for the hose to attach to. I found a little plate thats hold in place with two screws under the battery tray. Thats where I'll put the inlet, though I don't like that its in the wheel well. Anyway, thanks again for the replies fellas! 8)


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