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 Post subject: piston carbon
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:21 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2003 10:04 pm
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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I have the head off and I thought I'd clean up the top of the pistons and cylinder walls.

What the best way to do this without damaging anything?
Should I use a chemical, sand paper, or just a wire brush?

Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
You should be ok with a wire brush, but I'd also want compressed air and a blower nozzle handy, in order to get the loose crud out from between the cylinder walls and tops of pistons.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Personally, I don't mess with that #$^& in any substantial way. A friend of mine ruined his 383 bores after wire wheeling off the carbon during a head swap.

I just rotate the engine around several times, periodically wiping the cyl walls down of loose crud and vacuuming several times during the cycles. Getting anything stuck in between the pistons/walls will be bad news.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:08 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 626
Location: Illinois
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Go to your local dodge dealer buy a can of combustion chamber cleaner. Spray it on the pistons and let it soak for awhile the carbon will wipe right off. Be very careful with the stuff and use a lot of ventilation this stuff will mess you up in a hurry. Last time I cleaned pistons with I felt so sick the next day I could hardly move very nasty.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 3:38 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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When I bought my car, the deceased man's son told me his dad rebuilt the motor. I never did get any paperwork.

After I cleaned the pistons, I saw ".040" stamped on top of each one. That means 40 over, right?

I'd say that's good for about 5 HP.

Of course I had it all along, but it's nice to know that the motor has been rebuilt. :wink: :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2005 11:36 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
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Location: Illinois
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Did you try the combustion chamber cleaner or a mechanical method?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2005 6:34 pm 
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I used a wire brush on a drill at low speed with a shop vac.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 11:04 am
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Location: New York
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Quote:
Personally, I don't mess with that #$^& in any substantial way. A friend of mine ruined his 383 bores after wire wheeling off the carbon during a head swap.

I just rotate the engine around several times, periodically wiping the cyl walls down of loose crud and vacuuming several times during the cycles. Getting anything stuck in between the pistons/walls will be bad news.

Lou
This is correct. When I had my head off, I sprayed the piston crowns with WD40 and allowed to soak overnight. Then removed loose carbon with a scraper. Blew compressed air between ring lands and bores to blow out residual carbon. Rotated engine over wiping bores as pistons passed TDC. You must make every effort to remove all carbon from pistons/bores or you will compromise your ring seal.

Mitch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2005 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 3:54 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Atlanta, Ga
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Leave it on, the extra compression will do you more good than a clean top on the piston that you won't see again once you put the head back on :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2234
Location: Everett, WA
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Quote:
This is correct. When I had my head off, I sprayed the piston crowns with WD40 and allowed to soak overnight. Then removed loose carbon with a scraper. Blew compressed air between ring lands and bores to blow out residual carbon. Rotated engine over wiping bores as pistons passed TDC. You must make every effort to remove all carbon from pistons/bores or you will compromise your ring seal.
Even after doing all this, you still run the risk of raising the combustion chamber seal to the point that you will increase blow-by past the old rings. A partial rebuild, with just doing the heads, seems to never work out in the end. The money you thought you saved, will be spent doing the job over when you have to tear the engine down to do the rings, the bores, the bearings...


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