I want to replace my seized 170 with a 225 in my '63 Valiant. If I buy an engine later than '67 I understand that there is a trans to engine difference that may complicate the swap. In any case a junkyard motor would need to be examined and reconditioned somewhat to insure a good project.

Advanced Auto will sell me a remanufactured long block 225 for a '63 car for $1100. It has an 18 month warranty. I'll have to use my oil pan, intake, and exhaust manifolds.

Has anyone gone this route? It seems like an easy way to get going again (although a little pricey).

The other route would be to scour the salvage yards for a decent complete re-buildable engine. A rebuild kit with pistons is about $350 and machine work, I assume, would be more than that and then I would have to assemble the engine. By the time it's all said and done I'm thinking I'll have as much in it as the warranted engine. Decisions, Decisions.

Thanks.

Pat,

I faced the same question...after looking into rebuilt engines, I concluded the only reason they are warranted is because you will have problems. SO on advice of this forum I got a short block from ebayer Robzet at $350 plus shipping of $182. Beautiful job on it, to military spec, whatever that is. Including final assembly, cam degreeing and $500 in headwork with new big valves, guides and seats, milling and porting... total machine shop bill of $800. I supplied cam at about $200, head, pan, valve covers and manifolds. Basic total cost of $1532 for what I KNOW is a fine engine.
I assure you a $500 head is worth the cost compared to blocks whch can be had for shipping or pickup. Course after hearing it run once I got the bug and added lots more, like Dutra Duals, Pertronix, chrome, 4bbl, and all, but that was addiction, not need. I wouldn't dream of an $1100 blind date when I can get a proven quantity I hand selected and oversaw every step of for about $400 more. I enjoy engine swapping myself, but if you are paying someone, you don't need to be paying more than the initial install that may well be $400+ . And of course, you can always get a good running one from a forum member, too! I would rather have a good running slant with some mileage than a "rebuilt" with none, but I likely have a very bleak viewpoint of rebuilding after seeing carb rebuilder products. Just my 3 cents worth...
rock
'64d100

..,.

The quality of "remanufactured" parts is so uniformly stinkin' that in my more cynical moments I consider the whole industry a plot by automakers to sweep old cars off the road. Spending a hundred dollars on a "reman" carburetor is an error; spending a few thousand on a "reman" engine is foolhardy.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Aw, come on, Dan. Tell us how you really feel.

I have to admit that the one longblock I bought (302 Ford, through "Oh? Really?" IIRC ) has been pretty good. It's still running around Houston in a '77 Mercury Monarch today. I consider it an exception.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

The only reman engine I ever bought was one of the side jobs I did, a 231 Buick in an 81 Regal. It gave me zero problems. Some of the slant ones that show up on Ebay, the ones that they show in the crate w/ the top off that are described as industrial or military surplus that actually come with the service manual look to be alright, I believe these are actually done by Chrysler. The one thing that I can say about a reman is that if the block is found to be cracked, at least you have some recourse. The last slant I redid, I took in 2 engines, in pieces, (a '63 and a '73)and told the mach shop to measure everything out check it all over and get me the best parts of them all. I made teh mistake of telling them to scrap the leftovers. They wound up doing the 63 block because they said it would need less overbore to clean up (0.030 vs 0.040 O/S). I got the ebgine back, put it all back together and when I got it in the car I found out the block was cracked between the front 2 freeze plugs just above the pan rail on the drivers side. The mach shop said "well, you'll have to find another one and bring it in to have it redone", at MY expense. The car wound up totalled about 700 mi later, at the time I yanked the head and sent the rest of that cracked, fresh short block to the yard. But the last time I checked into a reman Jasper told me it would cost $2500 for a 318 Magnum, thats about double what I can get a NEW 360 Mag. shortblock for, from summit,etc.

I think Advanced auto sells ReCon brand blocks. I sold a few of them when i was in the parts biz with no problem. But I wouldnt want one for anything other then a daily driver that you just want back on the road quick. Ive heard storys about miss/matched parts and blocks that where bored .020" over on some cyls and .040" over on others. And you can bet they are gona use the cheapest bearings and rings they can find.

...

You never know what you will get with a "budget" reconditioned engine.
I have used a few over the years most were Ok, some were not.
I always get the short block only and get the head work done by a quality shop that I trust. (and can "work with")

I alway check the short block's workmanship closely. I have sent a couple back, one had a slight ridge left at the top of a bore, it did not "clean-up" at .060
On a diffrent occasion, the rod to crank journal side clearance was over spec. Both times I had no trouble getting a good replacement and the only effort lost was my inspection work and the time I spent returning the unit to the store.
DD

OK. I'm convinced. Looks like I'll be rummaging around "Crazy Ray's" looking for a rebuildable 225 and then take to a machine shop I know and trust. Unless I can find a whole ragged/rusted out car with a running 225 for cheap. Summer is still a ways off and I'm not going to hurry on this. Thanks for the good advice.

hello sl6 sages- i bought 2 reman engines, long blocks from pep boys. found they were rebuilt in philadelphia by recon. one was a 6 for a 55 ford and the other was an sl6 for my aspen wagon. both were excellent and still running great after 100k miles no oil burning . only had to do a valve lash adjustment in the sl6. i would buy another from the without question. regards paladin