I'm new to this slant world. I'm looking for some help. I have rebuilt a 1971 198 slant. I have got the front half dutra duals from Doug and I am switching to electronic ignition. I have an Accel coil. Do I need a ballast resistor? I thought if I bought a coil with resistance I would not need the ballast, but I'm not sure if I'm understanding the resistance correctly. Next I cut and welding a plate on my rear section of manifold and I am wanting to still be able to use the heat riser. I have the manifold pulled off a late 70's dodge. It has the round counterweight and it moves freely. My question is about the location of the spring. On the side with the counterweight there is a pin sticking out, a coiled spring wrapped around the shaft of the counterweight, and some type of metal shaped like a upside down 'v' coming from the shaft of the counterweight. I am guessing this coiled spring is supposed to hook on something, but I'm not sure where and how much tension there should be when I do attach it to the original position. If this makes any sense at all.

So, you've got some good upgrades lined up.
You don't need a ballast resistor if you do the HEI changeover; you will need a ballast resistor if you use the regular Mopar box. Do not use a coil with internal resistor.
Yep, the coiled spring's outermost wrap should be hooked on the pin.

Welcome onboard!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What's the resistance of the coil?????

If it's above 2.25 Ohms, you don't need a ballast resistor with the mopar box, otherwise shoot for having a ballast/coil combo of above 2.25 Ohms.


Not all high resistance coils have internal resistors. Some just have more windings, or thinner primary wire so the resistance is higher.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Ok, I pulled the coil spring around and wrapped it around the pin. This causes the flapper to go to the heat off position which would divert the exhaust away from the intake. The flapper is in a horizontal position. Since it is not on the car and it is not hot should it not be in a vertical position ready to divert exhaust towards the intake. When I rotate the counterweight about 1/4 of a turn the flapper comes to the vertical and when I let go it springs back to the horizontal position. Shouldn't it work the opposite?

Oops, that's not right. It should be spring-loaded to the heat-on position. As you're looking straight-on at the round counterweight (from the front of the manifold), the spiral spring needs to be wrapped clockwise with the hook on the right side of the pin.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok, my spring is wrapped clockwise and on the right side of the pin. Maybe I am messed up on heat on and heat off. The flapper inside the manifold is at a horizontal position. I assume this is heat off and when it is in a vertical position this is heat on. Is this correct. If it is, is it possible the flapper got moved on the shaft.

It's possible somebody improperly assembled the heat riser valve components in the past.

As you're facing the counterweight, looking straight at it from the front of the manifold:

Clockwise until it stops is "heat on".

Counterclockwise until it stops is "heat off".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My spring is working that way, but which way should the flapper inside the manifold be pointing when it is heat on? Does the exhaust pressure push the flapper down?

I read this thread and decided to check mine and realized the spring is flapping in the breeze, so I started touching and the spring just crumbled. I'm going to be the sucker and try out the exhaust mani. on the 1AAuto site, which has the riser valve, but has anybody seen a spring replacement?
I also bought a pre-cataytic (mini-ox) which attaches to the exhaust manifold, so last question, everything is good and rusty, do they (someone) make replacement nuts, bolts, threaded studs, etc. for the intake manifold to head. Everything is crunchy-orange, something's going to snap, (at least by the time I get done). I seem to only ask questions, feel free to demote me back to 1bl!

Good luck finding one.....I have been looking for about 2 months, and no such luck. They do not make the spring anymore. However, the sprin off of a Ford setup should work ok. The manifold I see on the 1AA Auto site listed above is the setup I am going with.... All new parts....Good price.....Need I say more?

See this auction on Ebay.