I've built motors before, just not a Slant Six. As I wrote before, I purchased a freshly machined slant assembly that had been "repoed" by my local machine shop, so I never got the chance to "back engineer" an old bullet. The crank, cam, rods and pistons were straightforward enough. I have installed the oil pump and the assembly manual I'm using says to replace the gasket ( easy enough ) but it also says to replace the "O-ring" . If it's internal in the pump, no problem: new pump. Is there an O-ring seal that goes over the shaft that's inserted into the block? Also, is the plug under the oil filter stand pipe that points to rear where you engineer the oil pressure gauge fitting? If not, where?. Where does the temp gauge (mechanical) hook up to the engine? Thanks up front for the help gang. I'll be checking in later with other questions. RICK

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Dago,
The o-ring goes on the oil pump cover(flat peice held on with 5 bolts),there is no o-ring on the shaft ,just the oil pump to block gasket.
And ,yes,the plug is where you sending unit/oil pressure line attachs.
Hope this helps.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Keep in mind that if you have a newer (last 10 years?) oil pump, then the gear may be soft and get chewed up and trash your motor. Doc may still have hardened gears, or you can take a good one off a used pump and press it on. You could also just use an old pump.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Hype, yes it was a brand new fresh out of the box oil pump. I just bolted her on. Lou, the pump DID have a metal gear on it (made me look ) I have discovered some interesting parts will interchange. I'll be installing the head next, until then. RICK

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Rick,

FYI, all Slant pumps have metal gears. Only the dists have nylon. It is the quality of the metal (hardening) that apparently causes the shredding. Just making sure you are aware of this problem.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Right on the money Lou! Yes, I had seen the warnings about trying to use the nylon gear on the distributor, and after pulling out two breakerless units in the salvage yard I noting both gears were broken or missing. I went with the metal replacement, which strangely enough, I found in the "Help" aisle at the local parts store. Probably the best five bucks I'll ever spend on my bullet. With that: NEXT QUESTION- I purchased a water pump and it has a separator plate between the pump and the block. Is there any advantage (flow rate, leakage, etc) to removing it? Thanks in advance guys. RICK The oil pump was a brand new Dyna-Gear, although I've had good luck (so far) with Melling. R

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Do not remove the separater plate. It has to be there, for the pump to work properly.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks Charlie, and I didn't forget the stuff for the Georgia race; I'll be crossing paths with the club prez this week and will gather up some wearables to go with my promised moolah. RICK

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Okay the head is installed, now which way does the rocker shaft go? The shaft has one end hole smaller than the rest (sounds like a Sesame Street diddy...."one of these holes is not like the others...") anyway, up in front, down in back...? Once I have that everything else is easily figured out. This is what happens when all your repair manuals say "Installation is reverse of disassembly" and it came in pieces to start. Thanks RICK

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Is the gear problem common to aftermarket pumps too? My engine kit came with a Melling oil pump and I'm wondering now if this will be a ticking time bomb.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I believe it is only a problem with aftermarket pumps made in the last 10 years or so. I have Melling pumps in my good motors, but they are both more than 10 years old already.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well, the one I have is brand new, still in the box. How can I check it? Or, should I just drop kick it and go back with the old one?

*edit*
After looking through the archives I'm wondering now if the problem is confined to severe service such as racing or do I need to worry about it with a street cruiser?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I'm not sure how to check it, but you might be able to swap the gear from your old pump onto the new one if the gear is in good shape.

This is a problem that people have had with both race and street motors. If you had good oil pressure with your old pump, you might just use that.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The old motor hadn't been run in several years. The license plate is 74 but I can't believe that's the most recent, still it had been sitting unused for a very long time. The engine was choked with thick black sludge; I think I'll take my chances with the new pump. I'll look at maybe swapping the gears.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I used a new pump....stripped the gears...conked a good crank(in a week)....tossed the new pump ....lapped in an ancient 69 pump....installed it and had no problems. Old pumps rule.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....