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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 6:59 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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So explain how conventional hydraulic lifters work in a 225. What's the problem with explaining and increasing everyone's understanding?
I just did. The slant six has conventional lifters. There is nothing special about them.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 8:04 am 
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Supercharged
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Stating that something works is not an explanation of how the thing works.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 9:47 am 
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So explain how conventional hydraulic lifters work in a 225. What's the problem with explaining and increasing everyone's understanding?
I just did. The slant six has conventional lifters. There is nothing special about them.
I can't argue any points, here, but the slant six hydro lifters do not have a oil hole in the side of the lifter. (I have a set in stock, and just looked at them). I do not have a small block or big block lifter (they have the hole in the side), that I could take apart to see what difference (if any) there is in valving.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 10:59 am 
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I looked on Rock Auto last night because I am intrigued by all this. Hydraulic Slant has it's own part number, but AMC and Mopar hydraulics have the same part number. :shock:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 1:57 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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I have no direct experience with hydraulic lifters of any kind, but I have always wondered how effectively the hydro slants manage to pump them up from the top. Seems like you're already starting with lower oil pressure (from the head), and then there's a lot of sliding joints for potential leakage (shaft to rocker, rocker to pushrod, pushrod to lifter) that would reduce the available pressure at the lifter.

Is the lack of a side hole the only difference between Mopar V8/AMC lifters and Slant Six lifters, or are there also differences on the inside? Do the V8/AMC lifters also have a hole in the top?

Just playing Devils' Advocate here... IF the valving is the same, AND the V8/AMC lifters have a top hole, then the only issue I see using them in a Slant is the addition of another big leak path (side hole to lifter bore). How badly that affects performance is way outside my wheelhouse, though.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 4:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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I have no direct experience with hydraulic lifters of any kind, but I have always wondered how effectively the hydro slants manage to pump them up from the top. Seems like you're already starting with lower oil pressure (from the head), and then there's a lot of sliding joints for potential leakage (shaft to rocker, rocker to pushrod, pushrod to lifter) that would reduce the available pressure at the lifter.

Is the lack of a side hole the only difference between Mopar V8/AMC lifters and Slant Six lifters, or are there also differences on the inside? Do the V8/AMC lifters also have a hole in the top?

Just playing Devils' Advocate here... IF the valving is the same, AND the V8/AMC lifters have a top hole, then the only issue I see using them in a Slant is the addition of another big leak path (side hole to lifter bore). How badly that affects performance is way outside my wheelhouse, though.
They suck as a hydraulic lifter engine. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it. I remember when they came out NEW. There were problems right off the showroom with lifter ticks on cold engines until the oil got around to the lifters. Plus, a lot of them really didn't run well. I REMEMBER them. I was there working on them. lol Being originally designed as a solid lifter engine, they really never took well to the changeover, IMO, because of the fact that they were missing galley oiling to the lifters.

Also, yall are correct.....about SOME lifter brands not having the side oil hole....but some actually do and some brands also list the same lifter for the AMC as the slant six. Is that actually CORRECT? Your guess is as good as mine, BUT I've actually used big block hydraulic lifters in a slant six and they worked just fine. It wasn't intentionally. It was "all we had" and the customer had to GO so he told us to do it.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 5:27 pm 
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I don't know how many readers really understand how a hydraulic lifter works. The amount of oil pressure to the lifter really not important. the oil supply to the lifter is just to make up for "leakage". If the lifter is full of oil, and there is no leakage, no additional oil is necessary. Of course, there is always some leakage, so some replacement oil is required, but pressure requirements are minimal. Most engines with hydro lifters oil from the oil galley, to the side of the lifter. Then oil the valve train thru the pushrod (major leakage), so a fair amount of "volume" is required, at enough pressure to force the oil up to the valve train. Since the slant oils from the pushrod down, the oil requirements are much less. I don't know if any one has ever measured the oil pressure at the top of the lifter, but I would bet it is only 1 or 2 psi. The oil in the lifter does not raise the internal plunger (spring does that), the oil cannot be compressed, and in effect makes the lifter solid. Did I get that clear as mud?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 5:43 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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I don't know how many readers really understand how a hydraulic lifter works. The amount of oil pressure to the lifter really not important. the oil supply to the lifter is just to make up for "leakage". If the lifter is full of oil, and there is no leakage, no additional oil is necessary. Of course, there is always some leakage, so some replacement oil is required, but pressure requirements are minimal. Most engines with hydro lifters oil from the oil galley, to the side of the lifter. Then oil the valve train thru the pushrod (major leakage), so a fair amount of "volume" is required, at enough pressure to force the oil up to the valve train. Since the slant oils from the pushrod down, the oil requirements are much less. I don't know if any one has ever measured the oil pressure at the top of the lifter, but I would bet it is only 1 or 2 psi. The oil in the lifter does not raise the internal plunger (spring does that), the oil cannot be compressed, and in effect makes the lifter solid. Did I get that clear as mud?
Yes, for me anyway. I understand how they work, too. But being badgered into an explanation....I mean really. I didn't take on any of these guys to raise. LOL All it is is basically a cushion to take up for thermal expansion. Once that's understood, it's easy to see how they work.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 6:53 pm 
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Last edited by DusterIdiot on Sat Nov 09, 2024 1:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 8:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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Just for some useless to the solution to the thread slant trivial information per the Slant Six History by Mr. Weertman:

The Aluminum blocks had provisions for the hydraulic lifter conversions, but the engineers objected to 12 cross drills
that might cause future leaks...in 1967 when they were working up the 246 CID slant six, they were going to add a second
galley for the typical hydraulic lifters used in the other platforms. Ten years later a Canadian engineer worked up the
fed from the pushrod tappet design...and it met a lot of skepticism that the design would actually work...
Well how bout THAT! There's always something new to learn about slant six engines. They never cease to amaze me.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 6:28 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:29 pm
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I guess the point is the lifter doesn't know where the oil is coming from, only if it has it or not.

The side hole of the lifter makes no difference in this situation.

The oil would feed down from the rocker arm, through the pushrod, and into the lifter. As Charlie pointed out, there is not much pressure needed, only a reasonably tight pathway for the oil to flow.


All that said, I would never run a hydraulic lifter in any Slant Six, roller or flat tappet. Yucky.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:01 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

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I've never held a hydro-slanty lifter in My hands, & would've torn it down if I had, so I can't state how they feed&bleed compared to traditional ones. What I can offer is that the oil gallery, & matching lifter "waist/feed-hole" are higher on the lifter body for the Big-blocks, My advice is to get one of each & trial fit/cycle them to see how they play in the Slanty. Also as an aside, I believe the SB Ford link-bars are an accetable length for the Slanty, may take a little custom work for clearance..have never tried them so going by dimension only. Peace..


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 7:34 pm 
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Supercharged
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I'm looking at this 1951 Buick diagram and it shows the oil flowing from the rocker shaft, down the pushrod and into the lifter. So did a Canadian invent this or just adapt it to the 225? https://www.hometownbuick.com/wp-conten ... lifter.jpg

The Buick lifter doesn't have an oil metering valve as oil only needs to be admitted to the lifter body rather than fed to the top end. If oil pressure from the pushrod were high enough to unseat a metering valve then a conventional Chrysler/AMC replacement lifter probably would work in a 225. What would not work is a lifter lacking an oil passage between the pushrod seat and the main chamber. This would include most OE Chrysler lifters for V8s with shaft rockers oiled through block and head passages. But those lifters are not sold new so it hardly matters except in a historical context.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 2:52 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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The only real reason I want to go with hydraulic over solid is you don't have to adjust them as often. This particular engine is for an efficient low maintenance daily. At some point I want to do a similar build but with a more radical solid cam and twin turbo.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 10:43 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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Alrighty! I already had one spare new Lunati Micro Trol big block hydraulic lifter. I orderred a sealed power 2089 slant six hydraulic lifter. As I suspected, there is one small difference, but not in operation. The slant six lifter has the disc check valve eliminated under the pushrod cup, to allow oil to bleed back out of the lifter and back up the pushrod, since it does not have the hole in the side body. Other than that, the two types of lifters are 100% completely interchangeable. The big block lifter is the same dimensions and has the bleed off hole in the side, which would certainly work in the slant six. In fact, there ARE some part numbers for the slant six hydraulic lifters that DO have the bleed holes on the side, just the same as the rest. Just look at the Comp 820 hydraulic lifter for the Slant Six. They have the side bleed hole and although I've not torn one down, I can guarantee they also have the disc check valve as well. That's the only reason the Sealed Power does not have it, is because they choose to leave the disc out and allow the in hole to be used for the out. On the slant six lifter here, oil comes in the pushrod cup hole, fills the lifter on the base circle and then expels a very small amount, like all other lifters, just AFTER full lift. Rinse and repeat. The only difference is, the lifters without the side bleed holes, use the same hole going out as they do coming in. The lifter is pressurized just the same in one hole as it is the other. Here are pictures. I did not get a good shot of the disc in the Lunati lifter on the left, but it is under the pushrod cup. The disc does not stop oil from going into the pushrod on the AMC engines, it simply controls "when". Again, these two lifters are totally interchangeable in the slant six, just as I said before and have done and seen done for a long time. Luntai lifter on the left, Sealed Power slant six lifter on the right. Argue away.


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