Does anyone have any experience using Furd 300" six valves for a large valve head. If so were there any problems? I have heard that this is the hot ticket and easy to do(no cutting down of valves). Is this true?


Please I need some feedback, as I have a head in the machine shop and would like to do this but need to know what to tell the machinist.

Thanks in advance,
Andy

the only problem I see is how can you get away with sleeping quietly when you know that you have a li'l piece of ford in your mopar

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Must bore or replace guides. Length is a bit off.

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Just as an 'FYI' www.sivalves.com

has O/S valves http://www.sivalves.com/ocdomestic_valvesps_dodge.html

at about $10 each + shipping (last quote I got a few months back) these are almost 'drop in' replacements (stem size, etc...but bigger at 1.70/1.44)

Also when you go with bigger valves make sure your bores are oversize I think Doc recommended at least .020, some others .030 minimum. You want to make sure you unshroud the valve from chamber and bore wall, otherwise flow will be limited and may not be as efficient as a smaller valve.

good luck,

-D. Idiot

By unshrouding the valves do you mean, notch the bores? I was planning on boring the motor .060 over will I still have to "unshroud" the valves if I do that?

Thanks guy's keep it coming!!

I am running the ford valves with no clearence problem. But I did over bore by .060 also watch your head gasket. I found one that wasnt as big as the stock bore Kinda strange I thought???

What springs and buckets did you use, and as anyone ever written an article covering the buildup of a head using ford 300 six valves?

Thanks
Andy

buckets??? The springs are chevy springs I think but I will check on monday. I would call the cox bros for more info but any compitent shop can do this. if you use them you need to bore your block. I am not sure how far but they fit in my .060 over bore.

I'm kind of committed to the ford valve because of price. The guy doing the head is a friend of mine and in the head machinist at a shop. I've sent heads that I thought were un repairable (eclipse turbo that broke a timing belt at 6000 RPM is a good example) and his work is beautiful. Unfortunately he doesn't have alot of experience doing anything but repair to stock. He is really hooking me up otherwise I wouldn't be able to do this ($400 for everything!!!)

I'm sorry for all the naging same old questions but, my machinist doesn't want to mess this up, really wants to do a good job and is relying on me for the right info.

I've heard alot of people say that they've uses ford 300 six valves, but haven't found any info on the buildup or the parts required.

I've been wanting to build a real hi po slant for a long time, now it looks like I've actually found someone open minded enough to help me with some of it. But I'm gonna need some more help from the slant community.

Thanks for all the help so far. Keep it coming

Andy

I had a Ford 300 valve head made up a few years ago. Unfortunately I knew very little about slants at that point, and I know even less about the specifics of what the machine shop did. however, I do know that the Ford 300 Valve is about as big a valve as you can put in the slant head without serious reworking of the valve bosses. Also, my machine shop had to cut the valves and remachine the grooves for the keepers, as well as shim the valve stem.

Hope this helps.

Although I did not use 300 Valves, I did put Chev sb valves in my slant head. !72 intake 150 ex, I used some info on Panics site to open the combustion chamber around the valves (radiusing) to unshroud them. I will be doing some bore notching to match this work. The radius work was done on a vertical mill. The trick is to make sure each chamber volume matches the rest,,,,tough when they vary so much anyway.

When he cuts the new seats get him to open up the port to the seats.

This head has not been installed and tested yet.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Thanks alot guy's.

Yeah the ford valves a very big that was my machinists largest concern. He is afraid that he will hit the water jacket . I just wanted to be sure that the ford valve head wasn't just an urban legend since I wouldn't be able to do this over again for a while. Now I just need to know what springs and keeper to use?

Would SB ford valve hardware work? Any resources for finding valve spring diameters, height, and pressure to compare SB ford to SB MOPAR?

Thanks again guy's

Andy

Just make sure whatever valve you use, that you don't go over 1.76 int/1.50 exh. 1.72/1.50 is about perfect. Any bigger than this will hurt flow. The guys with the most head experience share this opinion.

SBF valves will need new guides, and keepers/springs/locks to match the valves and your cam specs.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I had BPE racing heads in Placentia, Ca do my cylinder head, Steve is a gret guy and let me come down to his shop and guided me through building the cylinder head. When I showed him the write up on ford 300 valves he said that the money I spent wont equal the performance i think im going to get. the 5/16 bowtie valves wouldnt work either. Instead he installed the 1.70/1.44 SI valves, did a mild port and polish, 5 angle valve job, teflon/nitrite seals and the springs to match the cam.

This setup completely woke up this monster. I would send any Slanters back to him. he isnt cheap, I spent about 1200 bucks but we all pay for some money on our heads right?