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 Post subject: voltage regulator plug?
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 5:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:09 pm
Posts: 380
Location: Connecticut
Car Model: 62 Lancer GT
I am in the process of converting my 66 dart over to dual field alternator and electronic voltage regulator. I had pulled a harness off I believe an 80 volare a while back. I want to use it for the change over but the triangle plug has 3 wires on it. 2 from one pin and 1 from another. Can I cut the small extra wire off? What was it for? Also the 2 field wires are larger than mine ,like 12 or 14 gauge could this be a problem? Thanks in advance for any help............

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 11:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Hutchinson, MN
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That third wire (usually tan color) on those later cars was connected to a capacitor, I think for radio noise supression. The capacitor was hardwired to that third wire and a tab on the capacitor can was bolted to the car body along side the voltage regulator or maybe used the VR mounting bolt.

Is the capacitor still on your pigtail or has someone cut it off?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 2:33 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:09 pm
Posts: 380
Location: Connecticut
Car Model: 62 Lancer GT
No there is no capacitor. I did get the car running today. It runs good and charges the battery OK. Is there a test to see if both fields are working? Also I am not that used to ammeters. I have an old SW 60 amp unit. The alternator is a 60 amp. The needle reads +20 or so then goes down around +5 and stays there. If I turn the lights on it flickers but stays below +10. Does that sound normal?

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Hutchinson, MN
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Both fields? heh heh, there is only one field winding in the alternator. Both ends of the winding are isolated from ground and brought out to the two terminals on the back. Somehow, somewhere,someone long ago made the mistake of calling these later alternators "dual field" and it stuck and causes much confusion today.
On the early "single field" alternators, one end is internally grounded and the other connects to the terminal on the back of the alternator. ON the "dual field" alternators, both ends of the winding are connected to their own terminal on the back of the alternator.
That is the only difference in wiring. It causes much confusion today.

Yes, your ammeter observations sound about normal . After you start the engine it jumps up becasue the battery is being charging more. After the charge comes up the gauge should go to zero and stay there. The amp gauge (if propely wired) shows current going to or from the battery. Normally the alternator will supply all electrical loads with the engine above idle speed. At slow idle the alternator will not put out much so then the battery needs to supply current until the engine speeds up again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 7:17 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:09 pm
Posts: 380
Location: Connecticut
Car Model: 62 Lancer GT
Thanks for the reply and clarifications. Next project electronic ignition....

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4


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