Hi all, I am new to the world of the /6 and I thought I would say hello and show you my new project car. This is my 1972 Plymouth Scamp that I recently purchased from an online ad, some of you may have seen it as well. It has a 225/A904 with PS and A/C, Deluxe interior, 99.9% rust free, and straight as a pin. The seller said it had a "locked up" engine so he sold it to me for $600. I have pulled the head and determined that the #6 connecting rod has separated from either the piston or the crank, preventing the piston from going up and down. The crank will rotate about 3/4 of a full turn but then it hits something, most likely the #6 connecting rod. My plan is to raise the engine, remove the pan, and examine the damage closer. If the crank and #6 cylinder are not damaged, I may be able to replace the piston/rod assembly with a salvage unit and get this thing running again. Then again, I may be looking at a short block swapout. Anyhow, check out these pix of my new toy!http://members.aol.com/rct071365/Scamp/

Welcome, Roknrich! You'll find that this group is nicely friendly, and quite helpful.

I suggest you might find you won't have enough clearance to get the engine high enough to get the pan out of there. The trans will probably hit on the tunnel. You might want to plan on pulling the engine all the way out anyway, to make working on it worlds easier.

Other than that, your plan is a sound one, and it's been done many times before. If it does end up being just a piston/rod swap, you should do a deglazing hone on the #6 cylinder, install new rings on that piston, and a new bearing on the rod. While your there, you might want to check the rest of the bearings and check the torque on the rest of the rod caps.

Feel free to post questions on the board, and I'm sure you'll get more than one answer.

Roger

sweet car man... i'd say just yank the engine, do a hone job, backyard rebuild with rings + bearings... throw in a nice comp cam and a supersix.. then have some fun!

Thanks guys! Unfortunately, I don't own a cherry picker or an engine stand at this time, so I am going to try to do this repair with the engine still in the car. I have read several posts that say it is possible ( but not easy), so if it is do-able I believe I can do it. All I should need is about 4 inches of clearance and it should work. Otherwise I will have to shop for the afore-mentioned items and yank 'er out.

you can buy a brand new engine hoist for $199 at most auto parts stores, or rent one for the day for pretty cheap.. i'd say do that and don't try it in the car, you'll be working harder for longer to do it right .. you can pull the motor in a few hours, even by yourself..!

Although it's easier to work on the motor by pulling it out, you can drop the pan by raising the motor up and dropping the center link. Did that with a 440 Charger with no oil pressure after a "mechanic" rebuilt the motor (he forgot to put a plug in the front oil gallery).