I've just recently become aware of tools you can use with a drill to prime an oil pump. Is that possible on the slant six? Isn't our oil pump gear driven off the cam shaft?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

You are correct. Can't do it. I just pour some oil down the pump and turn the motor over with the plugs out for awhile.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I had a bucket of clean new oil. Submerged the entire pump into it and spun it by hand. wiped it off and held it so as to not lose the oil and installed it. That may work for you if you can get to the engine from under the car. I have a pick up so there was plenty of room.

My biggest fear on that first start up was no oil pressure. Make sure you have a working oil pressure gauge.

_________________
There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

Right, there's no way to prime the oil pump of a \6 with the engine built up without cranking it. One technique that works well for pre-priming (without cranking) is to remove the oil pump cover and pack the cavities with ordinary vaseline, then reinstall the cover. A pump thus prepped will begin pumping engine oil almost immediately.

I've heard about using vasaline but never knew anybody that tried it. I'll bet it's a lot less messy than the way I did it.

_________________
There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

I used to do that but found pouring oil down the pump to be easier.

If you do pull the cover make sure that if it has an arrow mark on it that it points 'up'. DAMHIK.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I've never primed a pump, and never had problems. I put a little (1/4 quart) in the filter just to lube the pump more quickly, if you call that priming. Crank over w/coil wire disconnected until you get oil pressure, then fire it up.

Assembly lube/oil should handle any lube needed during initial cranking.

I think all that stuff about priming V8s with drills are just to sell priming shafts. I suppose if you're the kind of dope that fires it and revs the heck out of it immediately...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It's good to test for oil leaks while the motor is still on the engine stand...

_________________
70 Dart, 360, 727

Not if you're building an engine with a cam that has over .500 valve lift and enormous valve springs. Priming is your friend....

On a stock motor, its a nice thing to do, but not necessary.

_________________

We took a pump and hooked fittings up to it(drill and tap) and mount it. Then use a Moroso oil accumulator and fill with oil and pressurize it and then open the valve on the bottom of the accumulator. We run 3-4 qts through it(you can hear it pushing the air out of it and allows us to check and make sure the rockers are being well oiled) and into the pan and then she is ready to go. Install the good pump and viola.

Maybe we dont need to do it but it gets oil into the turbo and everywhere.


Tom

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD

440,

One thing I always do is pour oil liberally over the entire valve train prior to startup (have big springs/540 cam in one motor). I agree that no oil there on a big cam/springs could be bad. So I guess that's another "priming" method that I do...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to give my 2c. Yes, you can prime a slant 6 without spinning the engine. Before you install the chain, install the camshaft sprocket and bolt it down. Take an air ratchet (don't use an impact) and drive the camshaft until you have oil pressure. I do it with no lifters and without the valve gear so the break in lube isn't rubbed off.

But I agree that on stock or mild builds, it's just not necessary. As spring pressures increase, the need for priming does too. Just food for thought.

_________________
Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

I have heard of vasoline but I never tried it. I see how thick it is at cool or colder temperatures and never thought that was a great idea going to the oil filter and engine on initial start up. I may be totally wrong.

On Ryan's 258+ engine, the guy had it on a stand and wanted to prime everything. He was a Ford guy so he took some kind of a Ford oil pump and dropped it in a small bucket of oil and ran a hose to the Slant 6 oil pump where the oil sender goes. Spun the Ford pump with a drill and that primed the engine. It worked fine, but I'm not sure it was needed.

Edit- Actually he did not have the pump on it at all. I forgot he used a plate I had made to go over the oil pump opening with an A/N fitting on it. Then he primed through that.

Me personally, I just pour oil into the pump and all over the valve train and lifters and crank away. Never really had any issues either.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Charlie uses an air tank and fills with oil through the oil gauge/light sending unit hole on the stock pump. Feed oil in, pressurize with air, then make sure oil covers output fittings and open the valve. An accusump would work too. I may do this sometime...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

One thing to remember, you need to rotate the engine, as you pressurize the oil system. Unless you are using full groove mains, and a groove on the rear cam journal, you may or may not get oil to the rod bearings, and valve train. I just turn the engine with a wrench, as I pressurize the system.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225