The repair manual shows 5 quarts capacity for engine oil in a complete change with filter. We filled all fluids on the '74 Dart Sport's first fire-up, and the oil dip stick showed "full" with only 4 quarts. This is the original dip stick, and it is installed correctly. As we have been fighting carb and timing issues, we periodically check the oil level and it remains "full".

I am using the taller-than-stock Purolator PureONE PL30001 (blue filter).
When we rebuilt the engine with a new oil pump, we swapped over from the old pump its taller check valve/riser thingy. Would that have anything to do with the level indication of "full"?

By the way, with the oil filter positioned upright, as it is on the slant, does it dump oil out the bottom when you loosen and remove the filter for a change?

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Filter changes can be a bit messy...

Did you start the engine?
It needs to fill the filter, and oil channels (I think), before you get a real reading of the level...

Yep, correct capacity is 5 quarts including filter. If you're reading "Full" with only 4 quarts, there's something the matter with the dipstick and/or tube...IF you're checking the oil when the car's on a level surface! Sloped driveways or ramps can cause a false reading.

If you're checking the oil with the car on level ground and still getting an improper reading, the easiest way to solve this problem and get on with life? Next time you change the oil and filter, let the engine drain thoroughly. Close it back up, put on a new filter, put in 5 quarts of oil. Start the engine and let it run til it's warm, shut it off and let it sit (on level ground!) for 10 minutes.

Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it, pull it again, and take careful note of the oil level indication. Use a prick punch or an automatic centre punch to make a new mark right at that location. You can even drill through the new mark (as is done on some transmission dipsticks) if you like.

There are a lot of different dipsticks and a lot of different tubes, all of which can be installed in most any slant-6, but they have different lengths -- sometimes only SLIGHTLY different, but enough to cause erroneous readings.

The L30001 is a good filter with a quality anti-drainback flap valve in the base. You shouldn't make too big a mess when you go to change it; most of what's in the filter will stay there. To minimize the mess, I usually unscrew the filter, carefully lift it, then flip it over (base up) as quickly as I can.

The tall centre standpipe won't affect your oil level reading.

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Unfortunately, I have a small drip coming from the pan drain plug. Its threads are apparently a little stripped and don't seal off properly. I may be draining it sooner than the next oil change. Is there enough "meat" around the drain hole to tap it for a slightly larger bolt?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Does your pan plug have a plastic or copper O-ring on it?. If it does and it's still leaking, you can get an oversized bolt at the parts store, or one of those rubber plugs.

It has a white nylon(?) washer, but still leaks. Rubber plug?? Didn't know there was such a thing. That would be the ticket, if I can find one of those.

I'll check around,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.