if the air cleaner flapper door was wedged shut and the engine continued to draw air from the air cleaner preheater stove (on the exhaust manifold) even after the engine was warmed up ?? My slant is pretty cold -blooded and there is never a shortage of cold weather here in Chicago. Thanks Dave

Performance would be reduced. If your slant is acting cold-blooded, it needs repair and/or adjustment. Wedging the thermostatic air cleaner into the "heat on" position isn't a fix, it's a kludge.

What year and model is this? 1bbl or 2bbl? Other mods?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

YOU SHOULD REMOVE THE FLAP ON THE HEAT RISER (EX MANI) AND TAP AND PLUG THE HOLES mjuamajaummajajajajajajaa


sorry, I couldn't resist.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I'm not gonna touch that with a ten foot pole Juan!:mrgreen::mrgreen:

Sounds like you need to adjust the choke linkage. Make sure your choke thermostate spring (the piece that is in the exhaust manifold) is working and not broke/binding up. Adjust the choke plate linkage that goes to the fast idle cam, as well as the vacuum choke pull off. If everything is working right, the cam will go down as the engine warms up, and slowly lower the idle speed. I set my engine to run at 1500rpm at first start, and as it worms it will lower to 1000, when I put it in gear and drive off. As warm air is drawn into the engine, a senser (bi-metallic spring) in the air cleaner will close the door so underhood air will be drawn in through the air cleaner snorkle. I think the sensor closes the door from bringing in heated air at 95 degrees. If the underhood temp never gets up that high, you will keep drawing in heated air. Here is a link to the Articals section on the home page telling you how to adjust the choke. http://www.slantsix.org/articles/choke- ... adjust.htm

Nothing, other than a loss of power from the thinner hot air. The car would just think its in Arizona all the time...

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Not quite true. Remember, the hot-air intake path is considerably smaller and more restrictive than the cold-air intake path.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

But both openings are larger than the throat of the carb.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Point taken- but that would probably only come into play at redline RPM levels and wide-open throttle.

It did also occur to me that with the carb being perpetually heated from the air passing through it, there could be problems with "winter blend" gasoline getting warm in the bowl, vaporizing after engine shut-down and causing warm re-start problems.

Best approach is to fix the "cold naturedness" of the car the right way, rather than band-aiding it. Probably a combination of a little more accelerator pump shot, a little less choke pull-off, and maybe a tweak of the idle mixture to be a little richer.

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