The transmission in my car (904) has been kind of sloppy and sluggish in the mornings and the shifts have softened up somewhat from what they used to be. The ATF fluid in the car hasn't been changed since I got the car so I guess it is time for a band adjustment.

How do I tell if it needs a band adjustment, and how do I go about doing that.

Kinda new to AT's

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

jeb-
you'll notice the trans act like it's slipping or hesitating during upshifts since the loose bands have trouble stopping the drums during to make the shift. usually more noticeable on the 1-2 shift (2-3 seems to do it a bit normally.) you'll need a 5/16 8 point socket and an inch-pound torque wrench (preferably a click-type) to do it right. you'll find the front band adjustment screw on the outside of the case on the driver's side between the oil cooler line and the kickdown/shift levers. it's the square headed bolt with a 3/4"jam nut on it. the low/reverse band adjustment screw is in a cast iron lever that is actuated my the low/reverse servo at the right rear corner of the panrail. the screw looks similar to the front band adjuster with a square head and a jam nut. you'll need to drop the transmission pan to get to it so be sure to have a service kit and some fresh fluid.
adjustment specs vary from year to year and model to model (there are "good" specs that people use but i don't know them,) so you had better get a service manual of some sort to adjust it properly. oftentimes shiftkits will include certain perfomance specs so if a kit is in your future do it all at once. the process is pretty simple and requires that you loosen the jam nut and torque the adjuster to a specified value (this is only done to seat the band against the drum) then back it out a few turns and tighten the jam nut. the front adjuster can be a pain to get to so you may need to remove the kickdown/shift levers.
can't think of anything else. hope this helps.

-james

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The 1-2 shift is the only one that is strongly affected by band adjustment, because during the shift from 1 to 2 the only thing that happens is the front band clamps down. The whole shift is front band action and nothing else.

The 2-3 shift is never as clean because the front band has to release at the same time the front clutch is engaging, so there's overlap. Too tight a front band will contribute to binding during that shift, too loose and you'll get an RPM "flare" during the shift because the band will release before the clutch is fully engaged. And of course if you DO have funny business during the shift, it could be the band or the front clutch. You can't tell which until the front clutch gets bad enough to slip in 3rd gear (been there, done that).

The rear band is only used in reverse and for manual-selected low gear for engine braking, so the only way to sorta judge it by feel is if you notice sloppy engagement into reverse, or slipping in reverse.

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I realize this is an old thread, but I had a question related. My 903 slips on take off, and is sluggish to go into gear when cold. It is a fresh rebuild (done in CA so not practical to take back to them). Fluid is at the correct level on the dipstick and good in color. Any ideas????

This can be caused by torque converter "drain back".
Try this test, start the car in neutral instead of park and let it idle for a few moments. Put it in gear and see if the slipping is reduced or goes away. If so, the converter is draining back, usually caused by a loose front pump bushing and / or a worn converter hub.
(Note: factory Torqueflite valving does not pump fluid to the converter when in park)
DD