So what kind of oil do the slanters use? what's yall's favorite brand?
Got an older verry mildly oil eating slant wondred what is good.

also what do yall think of stuff like: Duralube,MMO, slick fifty, ect?

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I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;

I know a little bit about one of the above, Slick 50. At least the older versions. It was not a cure to be poured into a sick car. It was a prevention to be build up in advance. The one I'm familiar with will not reduce oil consumption, but I saw an engine that had been run on it a long time. With my own eyes I saw it run at fast idle for 30 minutes with no oil in it at all, and I am told this demonstration was repeated several times a week.

Use a good oil rated for diesel use and a good filter. Delo 400 in 15W-40 and a Wix or Baldwin filter is my top pick. Leave all the other snake oil stuff on the shelf unless you are assembling a new engine then we can talk about that.

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Joshua

Thats what I use, and a Napa Gold (Wix) filter. Napa's All Fleet 15W-40 oil is Valvoline Diesel oil and its also cheaper than other name brands.

I don't know how you guys get away with using diesel oil, I tried it a few times in this and that, even my slant and it pumps like molassas and you feel the crank slowing at highway speed trying to mash it as if it were oatmeal in your pan. Its not Georgia but it was fairly warm weather when I tried it

How much money do you want to spend on oil? The best stuff on the market, overall, is Mobil-1 Extended Life synthetic. It is also quite expensive. You can spend even more than that on premium synthetics like RedLine or pyramid-marketed junk like Scamsoil.

But, in terms of almost every performance and durability aspect, the plain old ordinary oil you can buy today is enormous leaps and bounds ahead of the best oil you could buy five years ago, let alone what could be had when the Slant-6 was new. So, you should feel no qualms about picking out a reputable brand of oil of the correct viscosity for your service, and using that. Valvoline, Castrol, and Pennzoil are good picks, IMO. I avoid the gimmicky "high mileage engine" oils, which tend to swell-up seals, temporarily reducing oil consumption but increasing it in the long run. Out of habit, I stay away from Quaker State, which nevertheless may no longer have the horrifying sludge problems it had some years ago. I also stay away from the 10w40-grade oil, which by nature is the most sludge-prone regardless of brand.

You mention your engine uses some oil. In that case, you may want to use a slightly heavier oil grade to help hold down the consumption. Several factors go into picking the best viscosity for your needs. How much oil does it burn, and how much does it leak, and what viscosity grade are you using now? Where do you live, and what's the weather like this time of year?

Some of the heavy-duty diesel-service oils are a good pick for some kinds of service. There seems to be consensus amongst oil geeks that Shell Rotella is junk, but Mobil Delvac or Chevron Delo are quite good. These oil geeks hang out on www.bobistheoilguy.com .

Filters: Pick a good brand. Wix (aka NAPA Gold), Purolator, Hastings are all solid picks. Fram is not. Use the big filter (Wix 51515, NAPA Gold 1515, Purolator L30001, Hastings LF-115) rather than the small one.

Additives that claim to improve or "treat" the oil, "treat" the engine, reduce friction, improve mileage, prevent dry starts, "restore" the engine, etc: No! None of them is beneficial, many of them are harmful, all of them are overpriced, and most of the claims made for them are baseless and fraudulent at best. There are some substances that can be added to the crankcase for special purposes (i.e., when the engine must be cleaned out for one specific reason or another), see for instance here, but that's a different matter. Unless you are cleaning out the engine, pour only engine oil into the crankcase.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Redline really is GOOD stuff, and Amsoil really is BAD! (I took the 'pepsi challenge' as it were)
Quaker State synthetics are an exception to that of course, in fact its one of the better synthetics for the money. Only second to Mobil 1 for quality in my books.
Let me grab a pen and paper again, Wix really, really GOOD, and Fram really, really garbage

Sae 30 and 15W-40 are SAE 30 and 15W-40 whether is rated for diesel service or not. I have zero problems with Delo 400 15W-40 in my 225, 318, 4G63T, 4AF, 5hp Briggs, etc.

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Joshua

so what are the benefits of diesel oil?.. I thought diesel oil was for diesel engines...

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I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;

Yes I should have been more specifc, 15w40 doesn't work for me at highway speed perhaps because of the cooler climate

I get my local parts store brand (rebadged Valvoline), or Castrol. I too, avoid Quaker State and Pennzoil (same thing). Filter is a WIX or Mopar, every 3,000 miles.

SlantSIxDan. You quote the WIX 51515 for our cars? I thought that was a Furd #?

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On the higher mileage motors I have, I use Delvac or Rotella, which ever is cheapest at the time I buy.

On lower mileage motors, I run 10-30 Mobil 1 with a can on GM EOS (engine oil supplement).

My '00 Neon gets Mobil 1 without EOS.

I use 51515 NAPA or WIX filters on the V8s and Slants. The Neon now gets a WIX 51068 instead of the miniscule Purolator L10101 that I used to use.

BTW, when I saw the prices of gas jump up last year, I stockpiled several cases of Delvac and Mobil 1. Oil pricing seems to be a delayed. Gas was right at $3.00, Delvac was $36 a 6gal case when I stocked up; now gas is $2.75, Delvac is $44.

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Slant Cecil

Nope, not the same thing.
Mopar filters are mostly low-quality Frams nowtimes.
Unless you've got a really dirty-running engine that fouls the oil in a hurry, 3,000 mile oil changes are a waste of money and oil. 5k miles is entirely reasonable.
That filter type has been used for many years on many different makes and models. It was factory spec on pre-'73 Mopars (all slant-6s and V8s except fleet cars with replaceable-element oil filters); the short filter was introduced around '73 to solve a clearance issue on certain V8 applications, then standardised across the line to simplify the parts supply. The long filter fits all the slant-6s and gives additional filter capacity.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I run Shell Rotella 15w40 in everything we own. Started my 96 Concorde on it at its first oil change and at 185,000 plus miles it uses no oil. My 1987 John Deere 185 (17 horsepower Kawasaki engine) has had the same drill since new. The John Deere mows 5+ acres a week and uses no oil. And of course my 66 Dart (225), 83 D150 (318), 87 Cherokee (4.0), and my wifes 02 300M (the 300 gets the 5w-40 synthetic blend Rotella) are all using Shell Rotella. Also Ditto on the Wix brand filters! Although I kind of have a brand loyalty thing going here I believe the key to long engine life is proper maintenance with good quality oil and filters.
Todd

Probably doesn't effect change too fast due to it not being as much as a volatile commodity as gasoline and the tax factor etc. These oils are also packaged as a product to be sold in stores, different marketing distrubution whatever, and would be murder on inventory to be fluctuating the price as they do with gas. They forecast all of these fluctuations and analyse it to death im sure with checks and balances till it evens out for them still making billions of $ a year.