Any decent way of cleaning all the crap out of a head without pulling it? I know recently I saw someone's secret engine flush recipe, but can't seem to find the thread. Would something of that nature work? I really can't afford to get the valves and machine-work and stuff done that I know would need doing if I pulled the head, but it is pretty gunked up in there.

Thanks, Justin

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The problem with cleaning a head in this shape on the car is the stuff tends to go into the engine & in the oil pan. Then you have a oil pickup problem from it getting stoped up with gunk & loose oil pressure.


One of the best ways to do it on a car is take a shop vac & a screw driver & use the vac at the piont you break the gunk loose with the screw driver so anything you get loose is picked up with the vac & not left to get in the motor. Makes a mess of your shop vac though but it can be cleaned. Then after you get all the stuff out & you want to take it farther(get it cleaner) use diesel fuel or karoseen & a parts brush & remove the oil pan drain plug. after cleaning with the brush & fuel pour a large amount of the fuel down the head to flush things & let it drain out the oil pan until your sure all has drained. After dune just refill with three quarts of oil & fire it up until warm then drain that oil & do a oil & filter change. Adding the three quarts of oil & firing it up insures you get all the fuel out of the crank case. OH And put the drain plug back in before adding the three quarts of oil.



If your unsure as to what I am saying ask because you could screw your motor doing the wrong thing.



jess

just leave it alone. Save the money to rebuild. The engines gone this far it'll likely go until you can rebuild it. High risk to touch it, low risk to do nothing.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

If there're serious levels of gunk visible when you remove the valve cover, then realistically it probably is time for a take-apart/clean-up/rebuild. But, in the interest of scratching an itch, here is mysoup recipe you were looking for.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My 1979 Aspen Super6 looked just like what your describing from lack of maintenance. It was at 174,000 when I got it. I did like the one reply and cleaned the head with spray degreaser or kerosene. While that was soaking I removed the rocker shaft and did the same to it. While I was in there I changed all the valve stem seals. I power washed the inside and outside of the valve cover and threw a fresh coat of blue on it. Then while it was drying I took a air gun and went back to the head and blew as much crap as I could off that the cleaners had loosened up. I directed the air from the carb side towards passenger fender. I then blew air down into all the oil passages I could find. They were pretty gooped up. I took a rag and wiped the head as clean as I could get it. Power washed the rocker shaft and blew it dry before I reinstalled it. Reset the valves and slapped on the valve cover. I had the oil draining the whole time I was doing this. I poured about a quart of kerosene down the valve cover and let that drain out. Installed the plug then added 4 quarts of off brand oil and a quart of motor flush and ran it till it got back up to temp. Drained that and added my regular brand of oil and filter. Its been almost 9,000 miles since that and she's still going strong. I change the oil and filter every 2,500 miles and idle it 10 minutes with a quart of engine flush before I drop the oil out. Its still dirty in there compared to a fresh engine but I can tell from the color of the oil on the stick its getting better after every oil change. It runs "Super" and doesnt smoke like it did when I got it. If your engine was that neglected you better drop the tranny pan and change the trans filter and tighten your bands while your at it. I did and it saved my 904 from rebuild. It was so dirty it would not stay engaged in gear till it warmed up for a minute or two. I ended having to change the filter again after about 750 miles cause it started doing it again. But after the second filter there was no more problems. Not often you can save an automatic like that. Got lucky. Oh yeah might not hurt to change your pcv valve too. I did. Mine was all crudded up.

When I got the 63 it was so gacked in the valvecover you couldnt hardly hear the valves. I pulled the vc and cleaned taking care not to drop much in the engine. then I dropped the goo the po called oil. I used a cheepo filter and 2qts of cheepo oil and 3qts of dextron atf. idled for about 28 minutes before the after market oil pressure gauge suddenly dropped about 10 psi, suggesting a plugged filter. I shut it down and dropped the oil, changed the filter and did the same thing again. ended up doing it 3 times. now with the napa 1515 filter my oil stays clean for about 1800 miles or so, then I change it.

One thing I do is to crank the engine for about a 30 sec before I hit the gas to set the choke. I found this gets some oil pressure up a bit. If I start it cold without the pre crancking I have a nasty rattle for about 3-5 sec before pressure builds . did that before the flush though.

This oil change, psi cold is 42-44, hot 22-26
last change pic cold 37-40, hot 15-20
that is with 20w50 .... hot is about 190-195, cold is under 135-140
so oil psi seems to be improving. though the weather has cooled off a bit

mine is a stick so no trans problems

I think having an after market oil pressure gauge is vital on most cars.


good luck
tophat