well "I WANT" to have my head milled ported and polished as well as my block.. But can i take it to any enigne builder? Because where im from theres alot of engine builders due to an abundiance amount of dirt tracks in the area but do i trust any of them? most are familar with the chevy engine.... But how can i tell if a engine builder is qualified to work on my head and block? also what can i do to it? like what springs? rods? valves? and how much to mill both head and block...please help me im a young guy and i dont want some know it all messing up my motor if ya know what i mean.... Thanks guys

Ps Should i bore the block as well and how much should i bore it and where and what kind of pistons can i get for it? as well as rods and a good cam... Please HELP ME

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Watson/007/MOPAR MAN

In any case it's better for us to know what you are "planning" to do/ what's expected of you ride and what it is currently equipped with before anybody can "Help"....

Reasons being: One guy could recommmend a 'track only' build that gets bad gas mileage, puts out gobs of power, won't idle in traffic, and busts your 7.25" stock rearend after the first peel-out... Yet someone else could recommend a few "pointers" that might be OK for daily driving, makes a slight power improvement, very docile in traffic, and will last another 300, 000 miles....

Mostly the criteria for help would be:

Year, and model of car
Which slant are you improving
Tranny type and rear-end type (and what brakes?)
How much money do you have to spend? (the more you throw the better it goes)
What's the plan? (Docile/26 mpg highway, power improvement/21 mpg, 14 second 1/4 mile/NOS kit/etc...)

-D.Idiot

Ask around for a reputable shop, and then cross your fingers. The machine shop that I've been dealing with for the last 17 years was tied up and couldn't get to the engine I was rebuilding for my brother's Jeep. I asked around and chose a recommended shop. When the crank and block were done, everything was miked. What horror! Everything was within the window of acceptable, but was all over that window. My regular shop gets everything right on the money in that preferred (very small) window.

Being my brother's daily transportation, we were in a hurry. We decided to run with it even though I didn't feel comfortable with the specs (and frankly couldn't do much about it at this point). It lasted about 5 weeks before grenading (I've been building engines for 22 years and never had a problem). Check everything with micrometers or at least Plastigauge and don't take chances on something suspect.

As for the head work:
http://powrehaus.com/2006/12/05/old-sla ... new-power/

There are a couple of folks that port /6 heads, but it's best to use somebody familiar with your engine.

Mike

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Recognized by US Federal Courts as a Fuel Economy Expert!

64 plymouth valiant signet 200, with a 225 slant push button auto, 904 trans a 7.25 rear with drum brakes all around (need to up grade to disc) 14" alluminum wheels.... i want a street strip car but also a cruzer...
I have a few thousand to spend...

But i was thinking mill the head 50 thousands as well as the decking the block 50 thousands...
I i was thinking boring the block 60 thousand...with I dont know what type pistons.. I always ran keith black piston in my ford 2.3 ford mustang racecar, do they make a piston for my slant 6??
And i need a good strong connecting rod..wich kind should i go with.. i plan on new bearings throughout the whole motor...

Now The HEAD
I dont know much about this but i wann port and polish it...
I want stonger springs and i herd of guys using 340 srpings...
I also want new valves and rods but how big? and what kind?
But i dont know much about the head

on the top im gonna have a cliffored performance 4 brl intake with a 650 holley with Ram air... and clifforeds 3into1 headers with a custom exhaust..
I would like light weight pullys but i dont know if they make them for the slant 6..
the tranny will be rebuilt with a shift kit and light weight fly wheel and a diffrent torqe converter...
then the gears in the rear..

so far thats what i have planned and do and do not know plz help guys Thanks a million

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Watson/007/MOPAR MAN

You will need a new 8.75 rearend before you will need stronger connecting rods.
Front discs are a good idea. If you want to enjoy it on the street, I would go with a 390 cfm Holley or a 500 Edelbrock. Big valves (1.7; 1.44") and a good Isky 264 Dur/.441 lift cam or one of the Erson 270 degree cams. Raise the compression to 10:1 (total of ~.100" fom head and deck). Get a 2500-2800 rpm stall converter. This combo in my opinion will give you the best of race and street performance.
I would change the rear gears to a 3:23 to 3.55 if possible within your budget.
Good luck and Happy New Year.
AZ