I am running the K-V1 Engle cam. I have completed all the block prep in Doc.'s article, including the lifter valley standoff tubes. Would it be a good idea to groove the lifter bores for extra oil to the cam lobes. I am trying to prevent all measures of engine failure, especially a big flat cam.

I always groove and hone the lifter bores in HP SL6 engines.
With the stand-off tubes, the lifters will be submerged in oil so you may as well drain it out, all over the cam to lifter contact area.
DD

where is this article?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I made up a tool using an old lifter and a brake lathe bit it works great, grooved it about .0010. What depth do you recommend?

Right here: Playing with Blocks

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I've read this article a couple of times and it looks like it's very thorough. One thing is not clear to me though... Where does one obtain the pipe standoffs in the oil galley? Is there something specific I should look for. How tall are they when fully inserted?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I printed the Playing with Blocks article and took it o the Machine shop when I got the block bored and finished.

He Drilled he holes and then Machined / Installed the stand off tubes for me.


Experinced machinists / Machine shops Are the Best.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Doug how deep do you groove the bores? I will be at the machine shop next week. Also I got my 6 bolt oil pump from Egge I am going to pull it apart and message it a little. I was wondering how I can get one of those hardened gears from you? Thanks.

I think he is asking how deep the groove is, not the length of the groove........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

... the ones I do are somewhat small, appx. .020 x .010
That's about all I get on a single pass with the tool I have.
The key is to deburr and hone the bores afterward so they are not tight. That is where the time is spent.
DD

I'm having trouble visualizing this.

There appear to be no other drains in the area surrounding the lifter bores, yes?

So the stand-off tube only has to be tall enough that the highest edge of the lifter bore is always submerged regardless of engine rocking, etc. since this will insure that oil can follow the entire lifter circumference and keep the body wet all around? But also provides more drainage if the level gets too high.

Notice any oil pressure loss with those grooves?

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I've never done these modifications personally, but I don't think there would be any oil pressure loss since the lifters aren't fed by an oil galley. I think that's one of the reasons for the mod.
It's been said that a major rpm-limiting factor is the inadequate oiling of the cam lobes. The standoffs and grooves are meant to remedy this.

-James

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Oopss - thanks, brain fade, thinking of my LA motor!

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Doc, or any one else who has Grooved The Lifter Bores:


Does anyone have a pic of this to post?


I had Just Honed out my Lifter bores a bit with the Brake hone when I did my last block, But I did no such "Grooving"

A picture would help me to understand the Discussion here.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Is this something like the tool used to cut the groves in the lifter bores?
http://news.thomasnet.com/images/large/029/29587.jpg

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir