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 Post subject: 66to72 /6 interchange
PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2001 9:58 am 
72 Demon kicked a rod and broke block. I have a low miles 66 motor.

Any differences in crank flange or bolt patterns to put the 66 in front of the 72's auto trans.?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2001 11:14 am 
The 66 motor has a smaller crank flange and pilot. The 66 engine can be used if you also use the 66 flex plate, converter and trans.
Charlie


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2001 1:27 pm 
Also change the oil pan & pickup tube so the 66 combo will fit properly in the 72's chassis.
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2001 5:15 pm 
"Yes" to all of the above, but it doesn't sound like the original poster *has* a '66-'67 transmission to work with his car and his '66 engine. You can either machine the crankshaft counter-bore on the '66 crank to accept the 1/4" larger diameter '68-up converter snout (Doug, is there enough "meat" in this area of the crank to do it?) or you can adapt the later trans by swapping parts. I am NOT sure how far back you have to go. You cannot just swap the torque converter, because the input shaft splining is different. Maybe converter-input shaft-pump? I've done it before, but it was years ago.

DS


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2001 10:47 pm 
Yes, Converter, pump and front input shaft / drum assy. will swap in to make it all go together. (I'm sure I have the needed parts)
DD


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2001 12:01 am 
I had the same problem, later model tranny, 67 crank. Solution for me: had a convertor made. The first was a stock type, 1650 stall speed. The one Ii just paid $$ to have built has the small pilot with the later style larger input shaft splines. I had toyed with the idea of boring the crank, or putting the large pilot convertor in a lathe to cut the nose down, but Ii was not comfortable with the amount of metal that would be left on either piece, so on to plan "C" and have a convertor built. Now I have a trans/convertor than can be used behind a 60-87 slant with nothing more than a bushing for the post 68 cranks! He he he! (to the tune of $340, and almost a month of waiting to have the thing made!) Nice street convertor btw. Stalls consistently at 2200, smoking tires by 2400, will "flash" up to 3000 going down the road and nailing it. 1-2 shift, well, you had better know it is coming! This is yet another option for installing a large input shaft tranny behind a small pilot crank. I still have the "other" convertor laying around that will work for you. (Ran a best of 16.9 in the 1/4 with it.) Let me know if you are interested. chad


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2001 10:48 am 
Thanks Chad.

Yes, that special converter is yet another option. I did see one of these listed by a re-manufacturer somewhere but just can't seem to find the info now.

One note, you can not "turn down" the larger converter "nose" (hub) because it will break through before you get down to the smaller size. As they say, "been there, done that & I don't need the tee-shirt"!
DD


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2001 11:19 am 
Doug, thanks for the tip on chucking up the convertor in a lathe. You just saved me a core! I was rather hesitant to try it, but at the time i was quite desperate! (1 week before the rock race with a fresh motor and 1650 convertor!) chad


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2001 4:10 pm 
When I was putting the 198 in my '66, the '70 pan hit the rear of the K-frame. I did a little measuring and it seemed the only difference was that the '70 sump went about an inch farther forward. I also noted that the '66 pan had been repaired a few times, must be kinda hard to come by! LOL!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2001 5:12 pm 
I just gave a 65 pan, motor mounts, and a few other odds and ends away! Got tired of tripping over them. ;) I find these things rather easily. I still have a 72 truck pan (deep sump) that needs a home. chad


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2001 10:05 pm 
Is that 72 truck pan a rear sump unit? Any numbers stamped into it?
DD


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2001 9:10 am 
Dennis,

The'64 Dart pans I have also have a longer sump, so it extends further rearward, and would almost certainly hit the drag link on my '68 Dart.

Lou


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2001 6:04 pm 
Hmmmmm, Lou. I read in another post a while back that a '74 pan rubbed on the steering in a '66. Sounds to me like there are about a bazillion different pans!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2001 6:16 pm 
Dennis,

I think that the '74 pan probably rubbed on the drag link (part of the steering), which was higher on the slant six early A's and dropped for V8 early A's. I think that there was only one pan for early A-bodies (at least '63-66 and maybe earlier too), and one pan for late A-bodies ('67-76), but I am putting an early pan in my late A and you put your late pan in your early A!! Doug, feel free to correct me here.

I always just look and see, then cut and weld. The pan I'm building will be dropped about 1.25" and widened on the passenger side, with baffling, and should clear everything when I move my engine 0.5" forward for the A500 swap. I plan to pull the 904 this weekend and push the A500 up there to see how everything jives. Gonna rebuild the front end and put on the K-H front discs too. Ordering a converter tomorrow from SMR. Given that I'll be on vacation for a coupla weeks, the car should be down for about a month or so...

Hang on!!

Lou


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2001 10:13 pm 
Sounds like too much fun Lou!!!! I was just rememberin' here, Reed said he put a '74 pan in his '66 Cuda. Go figger! (Just remembered, it was a 273 car to start)


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