In some of the6 performance material I read about a special rear main that is designed to cut leakage. I run the high capacity pump with the high pressure modification. Great oil pressure, but I can't stop the rear main from leaking. Its a full rebuild and the pan and rear main seal have been off and changed twice in 3,000 miles. The part number was P4349040 does anyone have a source for this item. I tried PartsVoice, used to be great for everyone now its locked out to dealers only. Any help will be appreciated.
Jerry

jcalabough@mmcable.com

Make your own anti leak bearing by using a dremel to cut two groves from the grove in the bearing to the pan. You can use a big or small block anti leak bearing as a sample.
Will


slantsix@netzero.net

Why? There is such a thing as excessive oil pressure, y'know...
:
: Great oil pressure,

Possibly excessive...
:
: but I can't stop the rear main
: from leaking.

Sounds excessive! C'mon, guys...Slant-6s last for decades with regular pumps at regular pressure with clanky old bearings. Nice tight new bearings, a HV pump AND a stretched or shimmed spring? This is outta hand.
:
: Its a full rebuild and the pan
: and rear main seal have been off and changed
: twice in 3,000 miles.

Change it again, and fix your too-high oil pressure.
:
: P4349040 does anyone have a source for this
: item. I tried PartsVoice, used to be great
: for everyone now its locked out to dealers
: only.

Is not. I just tried it on the telephone, 800-328-8766, password is 88 plus your area code, or <A HREF="http://www.partsvoice.com">www.partsvoice.com</A>

DS

redbear@vrx.net

You can get this fixed! Sounds like you should take another shot at resealing the engine using the "grooved" bearing and adjust the oil pressure to the 50-60 PSI MAX. range. ( this will also help reduce the "load" on the oil pump to save a bit of H.P. AND reduce the chance oil pump drive gear failure)

My only other tip would be to carefully check the main seal alignment to the centerline of the crankshaft, I have seen some seals positioned WAAYYY off-center. Sorry to say that this work is done on the engine stand with the crankshaft out.

Are you using the "rubber" or a "rope seal"? This may sound crazy but if the seal's locating groove is off-centerline, a rope seal is a "cheap-fix" just because you can "pack" it to compensate for the mis-alignment, the rubber seal's short "lip" just does not have that range of flexability.

One other thing to inspect carefully is the crank's seal surface, most have a light knural (small dents) which can often be to rough for the newer rubber type seals. (this was intended to help the rope seals stay lubed)Inspect the "run-out on this surface and polish it. Next time the crank needs grinding, have this surface "trued-up" with a "kiss grind". (just take a minimum of material so it cleans-up & runs true with the crank's centerline).
DD