Let me phrase my question another way in that I got squat from you guys yesterday......if you were building a killer twin turbo etc. slant what would you use for valves??????? Come on, I know there must be an opinion or two out there!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Gary

gpaul44@yahoo.com

I use Big Block Mopar valves because I have lots of them and have lots of SL6 heads with good 3/8 guides.
Basically I can make up a "lower cost" head this way but there are better (lighter) valve choices.

Two others are the F0r!)300 six and the Buick 3.8 These take smaller guides and different springs & hardware (and there are many "grades" of valves with special features).

You just have to "shop around" and see which ones work best for you. If the person selling the SL6 parts is not giving you a "killer price" on valves (under $10.00 ea or so) then pass on them, you will more than likely find the parts cheaper with a little shopping).
DD

OK Gary My next engine I am going to use small block Chevy valves 1.50 exhaust and 1.940 intakes. Than I will cut them down to 1.780 intakes and leave the exhaust alone. Also I will cut the end of the valve stem down a little to reduce the over all length. With the bigger cams a little more install height won't hurt. Then get different push rods to keep the rocker arm in the right place. Next push out the old 3/8 valve guide and install 11/32 guide. Now you have a smaller stem for the air to go past. You can get good valves from Manley,CV,Milodon or even Sumit Racing. Prices can be a "good deal" to "WOW" that's a lot. Happy Valve Hunting

P.S. buy stainless

damuel@kalama.com

I use SB Chevy (1.72/1.50) valves in both my engines. They are cheap, but smaller stems and 0.100" longer (need 11/32" guides and shorter pushrods). SB Ford valves work great too I've heard and I bought a head built with those and it looks good. You will have to decide what is best for your budget and motor. The brand does not matter really, just the sizes. I would consult a turbo how-to book for valve INT/EXH ratio to use.

Lou

madsenl@caltech.edu

No need to cut them down. Cutting them that much won't work anyway. My new /6 head is being built with Phord small block (windsor, I was told) intakes at 1.78" stock, and small block Shivvy 1.50" exhausts, also stock. No cutting on the valves to get those sizes.

Since the sbc/sbf valves are .100 longer, does that change the installed height of the spring? I would like to use these valves, but I need springs capable of at least .530 lift. What springs would you recommend and what would have to be done to put them? THANKS! Darrin

dartman225@webtv.net

Darrin,

When I had my heads (2) done this way, the machinist just used hiperf Chevy springs and machined the spring seats to fit. I just have some generic single 1.25" (I think) Chev springs/retainers on my '68 head that are supposed to be good for .500 lift, and the '64 motor has some silicon steel 1.5" (or thereabouts) single springs which are supposedly good for 0.600" lift and with a 0.540" cam they have been fine. Comp cams, Crane, or others should have good springs - consult with your machinist. Put in the hardened valve seats too. Actually, when I put mine together, I just told my machinist what I wanted and he didn't even tell me the brand/model of springs or retainers. A good machinist should know what parts to use and what height/pressures will work for a given lift cam. Sorry I don't have more info on that.

Actually, the longer valve gives you a little longer installed height, but this is good if you're running a big cam! Racers actually sometimes use special longer valves to allow higher lift cams and better geometry. You may need shorter pushrods depending on how much you mill your head/block.

Have fun!

Lou

madsenl@caltech.edu