Hey all,
I've been coming here for a while to get tips and learn more about my '65 Dart 270, I love this car more than anything, and since I've started going to school to be an auto tech I can finally do the work she needs (I consider it a she, and have named her Audrey..)
The engine is the original 225 /6, however the block has an external crack over a water jacket. The engine runs, not the greatest (low compression, burns oil, carb is about shot even after a rebuild, etc), but has gotten me around as a daily driver for the past year and a half. I've found a guy here in town who is pulling his 225 /6 from his '75 Dart to put in a V8 (his loss), and I was going to rebuild that engine off the car so I can continue to drive mine and then once the 'new' engine is rebuilt, swap it over.
First off, will there be any difficulties swapping the engine out? With the 10 year difference in model year, I'd guess there'd be some differences in the engine, but I could be wrong. I really know nothing about the later-model Darts.
Also, I wanted to do a super-six type package (modified intake, 2bbl carb) but I have no idea where to get the parts for it - are there any suppliers who sell them, or will I just have to look around for people parting their engines out?
And does anybody have any tips on rebuilding the engine in general (good places to get parts, anything I should watch out for...)? The one I'm rebuilding is in pretty good condition already, but I'd rather tear it down and make it as close to perfect as possible before I put it in my car. It'll be the first rebuild I've done, and while I can bug my auto teachers all I want, none of them are Dodge guys, so they don't have the specific knowledge I've come to find so abundant in this forum.
Thanks!
- Stephanie

Welcome on the board! First thing: Go get the three books described in this post.
Sounds like a good plan.
You'll want to use the oil pan and pickup pipe from the '65, and you'll be using the '65 engine mounts (complete) as well. In addition, if your '65 is an automatic, you'll need to install the 1/8" annular adaptor ring in the '75's larger crankshaft rear flange counterbore, to accept the pre-1968 small-nose torque converter. This ring can be had from Pat Plais, tflitepatty@verizon.net .
Super Six parts and complete setups go by on eBay pretty frequently. Or, you could modify a 1bbl intake if you want more of a "do it yerself" type of arrangement — particularly since your '65 has rod-operated throttle linkage presently, and all the '67-up A-bodies, including all the 2bbl cars, used cable-type throttle linkage. You can convert to a cable-type accelerator and use all the factory "Super Six" components, or you can do something like what Dave York wrote up; click the small pics in this post to download full-size versions.
Well, what kind of a rebuild are you thinking of doing? Stock or near-stock? High performance...? Are you on a tight budget or have you got some money for upgrades?
OK, so probably best to avoid fancy schmancy stuff and do the first one pretty much by the book. There's not much that makes a slant-6 especially difficult to rebuild using good general shop practice, so your shop teachers' lack of Dodge-specific knowledge shouldn't be a major issue. You can get all the specs you need out of the service manuals.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

A slant six is a great learning tool for young automechanics, look at me! Anyways I would play with a couple of the easy things during your rebuild but not get to fancy.It always feels better to have more umph after a rebuild than just a stock engine. Also there is Joshie(?) who you might want to talk to who lives near you, or I am 20 minutes away and could show you want to do and not to do as I have a slant on an engine stand. Also have a super six and offy that I could cut you a good deal on.

Thank you! I've actually had a factory service manual I picked up off e-bay pretty much since I bought my car. I'll definitely try to get a hold of the others though if I can..

Alright, thank you. I knew that modifications had been made to the engines, I just wasn't sure exactly what they were. And I do have an automatic, so I'll email the man after I'm done here.
I've got money for a few upgrades.. I want enough oomph and meanness behind the engine so I can scare the silly wannabe ricers in the area, but I won't be drag-racing it or anything. Since it's also my daily driver, I have to find that balance between efficient/good driving (and mileage) and power. Right now I'm just dealing with engine/tranny (they come together, so I'm swapping them out together). Eventually I'm going to go through the entire drivetrain and see what needs overhauling or upgrading.


Thanks for all the tips, hopefully this'll be a little easier now.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

If you want to email me, stephaniebrite77@yahoo.com, I'd definitely be open to talking about prices and rebuilding both. Thanks! And... who's Joshie?

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

If you are going to use the 75 tranny, you don't need the adapter in the end of the crank. However, some other mods will be required. 1965 had a cable shifted trans, 1975 had mechanical shift linkage, so you would have to swap in a later shifter setup, or use an aftermarket floor shifter. Will require a different speedo cable. Will need a 66 or newer driveshaft. A minor wiring change for the neutral start/back up lite switch. It is actually easier to stay with the 65 trans, and use the adapter ring.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Oh wow. Thanks. I'll definitely make life easier for myself then and just use the adapter ring..
So will any other adaptations need to be used to swap the engines? Or just put on the adapter ring for the tranny and I'm good to go?
I've spent so much time learning about my particular engine that I really didn't know how much they had developed to 1975.
Should I look around for a service manual for that year too, since it'll have all the engine information, or are there few enough differences between the two so that it wouldn't be worth it?
Also, why would I want to use the oil pan and pickup from the '65, rather than the ones from the '75, and does anybody know if engine mounts are sold anywhere for the '65, as mine are very close to completely shot?
So I've probably said this about fifty times already, but thank you thank you thank you all for the help.. know that once I get started on all this work I'm going to be posting a bunch of pictures of the process for anybody who's interested.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

Only those already mentioned.
They were better in some ways and not as good in other ways in '75 compared to '65.
I can't think of any info in the engine section of the '65 manual that wouldn't apply to the '75 engine, except cam event timing, and that info can be had here on the board.
'cause the '65 pan is shaped correctly to fit your '65 car (the '75 pan isn't) and the '65 pickup tube is shaped correctly to fit the '65 pan!
You can get stinky 3rd-world ones for $9 or so from www.enginemounts.com or, soon, there'll be excellent upgraded American-made ones available, but they will cost a lot of money.

I like your idea of documenting the process as you go along!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Doesn't someone in Oregon sell urethane mounts?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Dan linkynoworky!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

How soon, do you know? Mine are cracked (the lining stuff on the mounts is all cracked and dried out, metal bits are rusty), so if I have to I'll get the icky ones and hope they last me til better quality ones come along, because I want to get this swap done within the next month or so.
I'm a photo nut, and I really want to keep documentation of the entire restoration process of my car.. from rustbucket duct tape chic (duct tape everywhere!! Radiator and gas tank as well as interior..) to highway cruising buttkicking beauty...

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

The correct addy is www.motormountz.com. The correct part numbers are, EM-2303, EM-2304, and the trans mount is EM-2272. Dan is correct about the quality. It is not as good as original, but they will last for several years, and they are available at a inexpensive price. The poly mounts (not yet available) should be much better. My only concern with the poly mounts, would be how much vibration, if any, they transmit to the body/chassis.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

www.polybushings.com , but he offers no engine mounts for the '62-'66 A-bodies. Charrlie_S, thanks for correcting my URL.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.