: I have posted an article on repairing the early
: A-body gas & temp gauges.
:
: Chuck

: I have posted an article on repairing the early
: A-body gas & temp gauges.
:
: Chuck

: I have used a linear regulator LM7805
: (~$0.50)with success to replace this
: expensive part. A local part store was
: asking about $60 for this very simple,
: original type mechanical regulator. Anyone
: who is familiar to fix old radios, tv-sets
: etc. is capable to built the alternative
: circuit to replace these bad stabilisators
: in old mopar cars. Only few extra parts
: (wires, insulator material, solder, a couple
: of capasitors and protection diodes) are
: needed to built the replacement circuit.
:
: The circuit can be cooled down (for example) if
: installed with screw to the cast alloy frame
: of the instrument panel. Dont forget the
: insulation between the circuit and the
: chassis. The maximum power loss of the
: component (when engine is hot and the tank
: full) is about 1.5 watts, too much for the
: component w/o extra heat sink.
:
: Pros: After electronic regulator installation
: the gauges are always doing the same
: readings with the same stimulus (temp,
: amount of gas)
:
: Cons: The fuel gauge is going to the scale very
: slowly, to fix it, the replacement have to
: get to send a little bigger voltage for the
: first 10 seconds.
:
: Be careful. Dont tell anyone where got the
: stuypid idea, if got your car in fire!
:
: JKKo

: hello chuck- read your item on abody gauges.
: thought you might have a creative thought on
: my abody gauge problem. on back of these
: assemblies there is the main round input
: output plug which plugs into a circle of
: multiple pins which are connected to various
: legs of the printed circuit. i aquired a
: clean working unit from a 76 dart to put in
: my 76 duster which looks much better than
: the one i took out which was from a 70
: duster. in the replaced unit one of the pins
: on this round of pins on the unit is
: missing. any easy fix? thanks tons .
: <A HREF="mailto:callpaladin@aol.com">callpaladin@aol.com</A>

: I would say that there is no "easy"
: fix. On the older units, the pins are
: installed like a rivet. After the pin is
: inserted into the hole, it is flaired over
: on the back side. The pin can either break
: off or tear out of the hole. If it is torn
: out, the hole will be enlarged. If it is
: broken off, you would not be able to insert
: another pin. Even if you drill out the hole
: and insert another pin from another board,
: you would not be able to get the pin
: installed correctly. Soldering the pin to
: the circuit trace would not give enough
: strength to handle the insertion and removal
: of the plug, and the soldering would require
: so much heat on the pin that you would
: probably ruin the trace on the board. If you
: really want to use that board, you would
: probably need to solder a wire with a
: connector onto the board and then remove the
: pin from the connector and install a mating
: connector on that wire. If you have broken
: traces on the old board, you can patch those
: up with solder and wire. I did this to my
: own '63 board about 15 years ago and it is
: still working.