Slant Six Forum :: Early A-body Gauges *PIC*

: I have posted an article on repairing the early
: A-body gas & temp gauges.
:
: Chuck

: I have used a linear regulator LM7805
: (~$0.50)with success to replace this
: expensive part. A local part store was
: asking about $60 for this very simple,
: original type mechanical regulator. Anyone
: who is familiar to fix old radios, tv-sets
: etc. is capable to built the alternative
: circuit to replace these bad stabilisators
: in old mopar cars. Only few extra parts
: (wires, insulator material, solder, a couple
: of capasitors and protection diodes) are
: needed to built the replacement circuit.
:
: The circuit can be cooled down (for example) if
: installed with screw to the cast alloy frame
: of the instrument panel. Dont forget the
: insulation between the circuit and the
: chassis. The maximum power loss of the
: component (when engine is hot and the tank
: full) is about 1.5 watts, too much for the
: component w/o extra heat sink.
:
: Pros: After electronic regulator installation
: the gauges are always doing the same
: readings with the same stimulus (temp,
: amount of gas)
:
: Cons: The fuel gauge is going to the scale very
: slowly, to fix it, the replacement have to
: get to send a little bigger voltage for the
: first 10 seconds.
:
: Be careful. Dont tell anyone where got the
: stuypid idea, if got your car in fire!
:
: JKKo

: hello chuck- read your item on abody gauges.
: thought you might have a creative thought on
: my abody gauge problem. on back of these
: assemblies there is the main round input
: output plug which plugs into a circle of
: multiple pins which are connected to various
: legs of the printed circuit. i aquired a
: clean working unit from a 76 dart to put in
: my 76 duster which looks much better than
: the one i took out which was from a 70
: duster. in the replaced unit one of the pins
: on this round of pins on the unit is
: missing. any easy fix? thanks tons .
: <A HREF="mailto:callpaladin@aol.com">callpaladin@aol.com</A>

: I would say that there is no "easy"
: fix. On the older units, the pins are
: installed like a rivet. After the pin is
: inserted into the hole, it is flaired over
: on the back side. The pin can either break
: off or tear out of the hole. If it is torn
: out, the hole will be enlarged. If it is
: broken off, you would not be able to insert
: another pin. Even if you drill out the hole
: and insert another pin from another board,
: you would not be able to get the pin
: installed correctly. Soldering the pin to
: the circuit trace would not give enough
: strength to handle the insertion and removal
: of the plug, and the soldering would require
: so much heat on the pin that you would
: probably ruin the trace on the board. If you
: really want to use that board, you would
: probably need to solder a wire with a
: connector onto the board and then remove the
: pin from the connector and install a mating
: connector on that wire. If you have broken
: traces on the old board, you can patch those
: up with solder and wire. I did this to my
: own '63 board about 15 years ago and it is
: still working.

Author:	Chuck Rivers [ Sat Oct 27, 2001 3:43 am ]
Post subject:	Early A-body Gauges PIC
I have posted an article on repairing the early A-body gas & temp gauges. Chuck http://slantsix.org/articles/instrument-reg/instrument_reg.htm webmaster@omnipages.com

Author:	JKKo [ Sat Oct 27, 2001 11:31 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Early A-body Gauges
Quote: : I have posted an article on repairing the early : A-body gas & temp gauges. : : Chuck I have used a linear regulator LM7805 (~$0.50)with success to replace this expensive part. A local part store was asking about $60 for this very simple, original type mechanical regulator. Anyone who is familiar to fix old radios, tv-sets etc. is capable to built the alternative circuit to replace these bad stabilisators in old mopar cars. Only few extra parts (wires, insulator material, solder, a couple of capasitors and protection diodes) are needed to built the replacement circuit. The circuit can be cooled down (for example) if installed with screw to the cast alloy frame of the instrument panel. Dont forget the insulation between the circuit and the chassis. The maximum power loss of the component (when engine is hot and the tank full) is about 1.5 watts, too much for the component w/o extra heat sink. Pros: After electronic regulator installation the gauges are always doing the same readings with the same stimulus (temp, amount of gas) Cons: The fuel gauge is going to the scale very slowly, to fix it, the replacement have to get to send a little bigger voltage for the first 10 seconds. Be careful. Dont tell anyone where got the stuypid idea, if got your car in fire! JKKo jari@kuparikuviot.fi

Author:	paladin [ Sun Oct 28, 2001 4:44 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Early A-body Gauges
Quote: : I have posted an article on repairing the early : A-body gas & temp gauges. : : Chuck hello chuck- read your item on abody gauges. thought you might have a creative thought on my abody gauge problem. on back of these assemblies there is the main round input output plug which plugs into a circle of multiple pins which are connected to various legs of the printed circuit. i aquired a clean working unit from a 76 dart to put in my 76 duster which looks much better than the one i took out which was from a 70 duster. in the replaced unit one of the pins on this round of pins on the unit is missing. any easy fix? thanks tons . <A HREF="mailto:callpaladin@aol.com">callpaladin@aol.com</A> callpaladin@aol.com

Author:	Chuck Rivers [ Mon Oct 29, 2001 9:51 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Early A-body Gauges
Quote: : I have used a linear regulator LM7805 : (~$0.50)with success to replace this : expensive part. A local part store was : asking about $60 for this very simple, : original type mechanical regulator. Anyone : who is familiar to fix old radios, tv-sets : etc. is capable to built the alternative : circuit to replace these bad stabilisators : in old mopar cars. Only few extra parts : (wires, insulator material, solder, a couple : of capasitors and protection diodes) are : needed to built the replacement circuit. : : The circuit can be cooled down (for example) if : installed with screw to the cast alloy frame : of the instrument panel. Dont forget the : insulation between the circuit and the : chassis. The maximum power loss of the : component (when engine is hot and the tank : full) is about 1.5 watts, too much for the : component w/o extra heat sink. : : Pros: After electronic regulator installation : the gauges are always doing the same : readings with the same stimulus (temp, : amount of gas) : : Cons: The fuel gauge is going to the scale very : slowly, to fix it, the replacement have to : get to send a little bigger voltage for the : first 10 seconds. : : Be careful. Dont tell anyone where got the : stuypid idea, if got your car in fire! : : JKKo Years ago I thought about designing an electronic regulator for the replacement, but I rejected the idea for this article because I thought that the majority of our readers would be more comfortable installing the mechanical replacement. The electronic circuit requires soldering and a way to mount the regulator to provide for heat dissapation. I was going to install the circuit inside the gas gauge but figured that it wasn't worth the trouble due to the additional time involved. Chuck webmaster@omnipages.com

Author:	Chuck Rivers [ Mon Oct 29, 2001 10:09 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Early A-body Gauges
Quote: : hello chuck- read your item on abody gauges. : thought you might have a creative thought on : my abody gauge problem. on back of these : assemblies there is the main round input : output plug which plugs into a circle of : multiple pins which are connected to various : legs of the printed circuit. i aquired a : clean working unit from a 76 dart to put in : my 76 duster which looks much better than : the one i took out which was from a 70 : duster. in the replaced unit one of the pins : on this round of pins on the unit is : missing. any easy fix? thanks tons . : <A HREF="mailto:callpaladin@aol.com">callpaladin@aol.com</A> I would say that there is no "easy" fix. On the older units, the pins are installed like a rivet. After the pin is inserted into the hole, it is flaired over on the back side. The pin can either break off or tear out of the hole. If it is torn out, the hole will be enlarged. If it is broken off, you would not be able to insert another pin. Even if you drill out the hole and insert another pin from another board, you would not be able to get the pin installed correctly. Soldering the pin to the circuit trace would not give enough strength to handle the insertion and removal of the plug, and the soldering would require so much heat on the pin that you would probably ruin the trace on the board. If you really want to use that board, you would probably need to solder a wire with a connector onto the board and then remove the pin from the connector and install a mating connector on that wire. If you have broken traces on the old board, you can patch those up with solder and wire. I did this to my own '63 board about 15 years ago and it is still working. Chuck webmaster@omnipages.com

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Author:	Dave Clement [ Thu Nov 01, 2001 10:24 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Early A-body Gauges
Quote: : I would say that there is no "easy" : fix. On the older units, the pins are : installed like a rivet. After the pin is : inserted into the hole, it is flaired over : on the back side. The pin can either break : off or tear out of the hole. If it is torn : out, the hole will be enlarged. If it is : broken off, you would not be able to insert : another pin. Even if you drill out the hole : and insert another pin from another board, : you would not be able to get the pin : installed correctly. Soldering the pin to : the circuit trace would not give enough : strength to handle the insertion and removal : of the plug, and the soldering would require : so much heat on the pin that you would : probably ruin the trace on the board. If you : really want to use that board, you would : probably need to solder a wire with a : connector onto the board and then remove the : pin from the connector and install a mating : connector on that wire. If you have broken : traces on the old board, you can patch those : up with solder and wire. I did this to my : own '63 board about 15 years ago and it is : still working. Chuck, I have had good success soldering the pins to the etches on this connector. The etch is quite heavy and takes the heat easily without delaminating. The key is to use a hot iron (700degrees or so), that lets you get in make the solder connection and get out quickly. I do this just to ensure I do not have intermittant connections. On another list a number of people have had good success replacing broken pins with brass brads from the hardware store. They put them through the PWB from the back side and solder them to the etch. I also sent directly to you to articles that I have collected on making a solid state IVR to post in the articles section. Seems to me if you are going to take the time replace the IVR you should do it with something that will work better. NOTE: 67-69 Barracuda's and Dart's with the ralley dash still have the IVR in the gas gauge. Dave Hot-Rod 6 dave.clement@motorola.com

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